LA5500XKW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

pulled leads off old wigwag solenoid, removed set screw and sprayed shaft w/wd40 then tapped it off shaft w/small hammer and large screwdriver. put new wigwag solenoid onto shaft then tapped it down into place and tapped it to rotate to expose set screw hole. reattached set screw, reattached leads to solenoid, checked looseness/freeness of cam arms and it worked

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

I stripped the machine down and replaced the tub seal and drain hose.

replace the water valve

Removed the old one installed the new one

It was a no-brainer repair. We removed the worn hose and replaced it with the new one. Only variable was that the new clamp was too big for our fitting, so we used the old one. The clamp was the only mechanical thing we did. The best part was the very prompt delivery of the new part and the help finding it from the rep at the company.

My husband and a friend did the work. I was not there but was told that there was no problem. Everything is working well now.

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

My wife did the repair. Went on your website and watch the video on how to replace the switch and she was able to do it herself. I didn't mind at all. Saved $75.00 service charge.

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.

Oredered late Friday afternoon. Got part Monday afternoon.thanks

Both the latch on the door and the strike plate were replaced. A technician from Parts-Select came and leveling and removal of possible obstructions were done. It looked like it might stay closed but popped open with temperature additions during the wash cycle. The door seals had been replaced and probably were putting some additional pressure on the door. I inserted the "magic bullet" --- (a screw) in above the strike plate and that solved the problem---door stays shut. As a side note, the screw originally used was inserted in an electrical wire plastic connector and inserted but it appears that shutting the door too hard caused it to pop into the cavity behind the latch (not into the washer itself). So I used a plastic sheet rock anchor with large spiral threads which was a larger diameter than the strike-plate slot and therefore when the door was shut hard there was no way that it could be dislodged. It was a smaller size anchor in order to not put excessive pressure on the stike-plate. Since the plastic anchor had a phillips head slot I did not have to use a metal screw to get the anchor in.