KTM487187B Frigidaire Range - Instructions

The repair was really easy. All I did was unplug the surface element and plug in the new one.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.

Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.

I couldn't explain how to do the job any better than your instructional video does. As long as you follow the video instructions you should have no problems.

Simple Just plugged it in !

Just took the old one out & put the new one in . Just a few screws to remove & put them back when replacing to new broil element , and were back up and cooking :)

I unplugged the damaged element and plugged in the new one. It took less trhan 30 seconds and the unit worked just fine.

older range required no tools to repair, pulled old gasket out of notches at bottom of door, popped clips out of pre-drilled holes, folded new gasket ends {2 inches} and pushed into door, pushed clips into place.

Turn off power, remove heat coil assembly and drip pan. Unscrew the terminal assembly from the range top. Cut back 3 inches on each terminal wire and strip insulation 3/8 inch. Terminal assembly should be with the short side of the black block (from the side securement hubs) facing toward the coil stems. Slide the shrink wrap onto each wire and Twist each old with each new wire using the wire nuts and slide the shrink wrap Over each. Using a hair dryer, heat gun, or open flame carefully shrink the wrap. Secure the terminal back in place on the range.

Just followed the instructions

Unpluged old one pluged new one in. So good to have a burner that all the coils heat up.

I looked up the model number of the Tappan oven on the net, found the part on the PartSelect site, ordered it and it arrived within a few days. The disassembly should have required nothing more than a Phillips head screw driver, unfortunately one of the screws was completely frozen and I managed to strip the Phillips head socket.

The screw was in a very awkward position so I first tried using grip pliers on the edge of the screw - this failed, I then tried grinding a flat spot on either side of the screw circumference and using the flats for gripping - it worked but the screw wouldn't move. Finally, I took a hacksaw blade and cut a slot in the head of the screw. I widened the slot using miniature files and finally made the slot wide enough for a large slot blade screwdriver - this worked. After removing that one screw and maneuvering the broken hinge out of the access hole on the stove front (the break in the hinge was such that this took awhile) the rest of the repair went very quickly.

The oven door was such that I could not see all of the hinge and when the part arrived from PartSelect I thought it was the wrong part. I called your parts return number to ask some questions. The lady who took my call was extremely helpful and we first discussed the part ID, then she showed me how to find a picture of the actual part on your site. After looking at the picture and the diagram I suddenly realized the part was correct - it was just that I thought it was supposed to be installed in a different manner. I'm sorry I didn't remember to get her name because she certainly should be commended for he patience and her assistance. Thanks Again.

Pretty easy installation; you lift the top plate up and snip the wires maybe four inches away from the burner. Leave more wire than you think you need; once you get into it you'll realize you need more wire length than you think.

Then strip the remaining ends, twist them together with the provided caps, and use the heat shrink to hold it together. Remove the old terminal, replace it with the new ones, and you're good to go!

Remember to check that the wires are tight in the cap before heat shrinking, though. I had to get more shrink wrap in order to finish.

First thing I did was turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker. The repair was generally easy with the exception that 1 screw holding the broiler element support was "welded" into the oven ceiling. I stripped the screw trying to get it out. Fortunately, I had a special tool that allows one to grip the outer edge of the screw while turning it --- and that's how I got it apart. Once the broiler element support was off, I removed 2 screws holding the broiler element itself to the oven wall and carefully pulled the broiler element out from the oven wall and detached the wire clips connecting the wires to the broiler element. I reattached the clips onto the new element and installed the new element back into the oven wall. I then reattached the broiler element support using a another screw (because I decimated the original one). I then turned the circuit breaker back on and turned the broiler on. Woila. My broiler works again! Special thanks to the people at this site who were very helpful in seeing to it I got the correct broiler element. The original ordered broiler element was delivered to the wrong address. The folks at this site sent me another one. To make a long story short, they saw to it I got the correct part. I highly recommend this site based on my experience with them.