KSSC48FTS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Just follow youtube examples. Work in freezer. Troubles was I didn't fix the problem. Experts say thermostat is the best one to replace (53%). Anyway they are not always right.

I took the cover off, and noticed the tabs holding the timer wheel were broken off on one side. after removing the wheel, I noticed the shaft from the ice lifters was broken. Since the only way I could repair it was to buy the entire module, which I did. I received my part in 3 days. When it came, I began removing the old module by taking out the three screws holding it. After replacing the module which took about 10 minutes, my machine was making ice within about an hour. My ice holder was full in 3 days. Albert Moran, Milton, Fl

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Watched the video...easy!

Watched video of similar model repair for filter housing. But the model KitchenAide refrigerator requires enter and replacing housing from the back. My model has a metal facing which has doors attached to it also. It was simple repair though from the backside of the appliance.

Just needed to replace the water filter

I had watched several video's on installing the plugs in the Kitchenaid model that I had, but when it came down to the install the figuration was a little different. I did figure it out and the rest was a piece of cake. Remember to shut the power off!

Unplug fridge, turn off water to fridge
Uninstall ice maker (some tools needed)
Remove ice buildup inside water line

Purchase new ice maker and installed it while watching a youtube video of how to do it. Once installed, turned on the water line and plugged in fridge.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Easy, just removed the ice dispenser and the left support for the dispenser so I could get to the bottom screw easier. Three screws held the mold in place. The bottom screw had to be removed completely, but I just loosened the two top screws and lifted the mold out away from the wall and then disconnected the wiring. The end cover snapped of easy with a screw driver. I then removed the three screws holding the motor. then pulled the motor off.(the next square part under the cover. I did this before I realized that I could use a small screw driver and stick it into the holes to remove the mold and not mess with the outer screws. After I removed the mold, I replaced the new mold into position, without putting the white forky looking part back on so I had to take the two screws out and put the part in place before attaching the motor back to the mold. Everything went back together just like a charm. The ice maker is working good, easy job. Gone golfing now.

turned water off to ice maker unpluged fridg while doing repair which was such short time everything was ok removed 3 1/4 hex screws holding ice maker in position while holding ice maker in hand unpluged wiring connection for it removed old ice mold which coating had come off of which was very simple 2 philips screws which are recessed on control unit then gently wiggle assembly apart paying attention to how all the tray parts went together then reinstalling same way as they were remove very simple repair anyone should be able to do