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Ice maker had stopped making ice.
Ordered the parts from Parts Select and had them within two days (lightning fast shipment--and with just standard shipping). Disconnected the power to refrigerator, removed three screws from each cover panel, pulled the panels loose from the freezer wall, disconnected the wiring harness on each, removed the screws holding the two boards, replaced the boards with the new ones, attached boards to cover panel with screw, reconnected wiring harnesses, replaced the three screws on each side, restored power, and made ice! Whole job took about 15 minutes.
I unplugged the refrigerator Opened the freezer door Opened the ice maker door so that I could easily get to the emitter and receiver I used a phillips head screw driver to remove 3 screws from the emitter plate and 3 screws from the receiver plate I unplugged the faulty circuit boards--this took some tugging I firmly plugged in the new circuit boards and replaced the screws I waited about 30 minutes and the ice maker began making ice again
After receiving the replacement emitter and receiver boards from PartSelect.com, I following the troubleshooting paperwork that came with my order to ensure the parts I ordered where the problem. After which, it was very straight forward: unplug the frig, unscrew the 3 screws on the covers for each board, unplug the push-pin connection, remove the board screw, set the new board in, and plug back into the connection. It took approximately 20min.
Unscrew the three phillips screws holding the flipper and electric eye unit, pull it out a bit to unplug the connector. Take the assembly over to a flat surface, and use pliers and or crew driver to pry/pull off the press-on retainer on the hinge pin. Pull out hinge pin, remove the broken flipper. Put new flipper in place making sure spring is behind the flipper (holding it open). Reinsert hinge pin, and then reuse the press-on retainer to hold in in place. Then take the repaired assembly back to the freezer, re-plug the plug, and then reinstall the unit using the 3 phillips screws. Easy Peasy.
This was a very simple piece of kit to replace. We are not electricians but commonsense helped. Follow the man's advice below me but you don't need to empty the whole refridgerator just the top shelf. Very, very simple. Thank you the man below.
Light was blinking on the Electronic Control Boards. Ordered replacement (emitter and receiver)and installed, and now it's working. Some note: 1 year ago, the board started to blinks (meaning it's bad) but it was still making ice. This gave me a false error when it really failed, took the risk and ordered the replacement parts and all is well now.
One more thing to pay attention to , and it may only be on my model of refrigerator, but the wires harness that connect to the receiver board (big board) have large and stiff wire. With limited space where the board and the wire are seat at, it put lots of pressure on the pressure on the board's connector. This pressure, over time, will cause the right angle connector's solders to crack and may be a contributor to the failure. If you're installing the new board, try to re-inforce the connector with some rubber heat glue and also relieve pressure from the connector's end, which I hope will prolong your board.
Repairing a refrigerator is inimidating to say the least. Our ice maker has broke twice in the two years that we have owned it. The first time we had a service repair faciliting come out and they replaced it for about $200. The second time I had no idea what the problem was until I came to this repair forum. I soon realized that the electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Received the part two days after ordering and it took all of about 5 minutes to unscrew the old boards, pop them out, and put in the new ones.
Love your website and the money that you saved me!!! Thanks a million!
Pry open the front dispenser outer cover. Remove a screw holding ice door dispenser unit, remove old door chute, remove and place coil kind of stuff (connecting to panel) old chute to new one and reinstall.
power off, 3 phillips head screws on either side of freezer. unplg each board, plug new ones in completely. ( cannot mix them up, size difference) replace screws and enjoy ice cold beverages once again!!!!!!!!!
Ice maker motor would run continuously but the blades would not turn and no ice came out.
I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it. I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
Ice Dispenser worked poorly causing frequent frost buildups and poor dispenser operation
This built-in model requires complete removal of stainless steel door "Cover". A trim piece that covers the screws on the left side of the door requires lowering the refrigerator on to the rolling legs and moving it forward for access. The tipover strap on top of the refrigerator must be removed first. One the door is slowly lowered and then pulled out you need to remove the trim piece then remove the screws on the bottom, top, and lft side. Then remove the four screws from the internal side of the dispenser. With assistance slowly pull the entire front cover from the door which gives access to the internal electronic pad. Be very careful with the door cover as the edges are razor sharp stainless steel. Remove the electronic pad (4 socket screws) and move it to provide access to the motor bracket assembly. Remove assembly (2 screws) and replace with new. This includes removing the connector plug which came off easily. The replacement assembly was a new design from the original which appeared to be much better design. This was very simple to replace. Now the hardest part is "popping" the front door cover back on the front which is a two person job. I taped the trim attachment strips to the inside of the cover (left and bottom sides had the strip) so the screw holes would line up when the cover is replaced. All four sides must slide on at the same time with a slight advantage to the side with the handle. Note: this can be dangerous because of the sharp edges and very precise fit...a blood donation was required because of an errant hand and the quick snap in popping the door in place. Once its back on, reverse the process of replacing the screws and carefully moving back in to position and raising back up to previous height. I had very little information on how to do this so I did it slowly and deliberately so it took me about two hours. The dispenser now works better then ever and I have had no frost build up....I wish I had done it 4 years ago.
Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.
Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.
The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.
Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.
