KSRK22ILSS13 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

after ordering ice dispencer repair kit, and removing the outer parts found out that the problem was the ice dispencer door shell . this part is no longer available.It seems to me that if whirlpool wants to have return customers they have to stand behind the product. Well I made a L bracket and drilled a hole to to recieve the spring keeper and glued this to the housing and used a 3 1/12"finishing nail as the pin all works fine

Just turn old filter counterclockwise, pulli it out, insert the new filter from "Part Select" clockwise and WALLLA!!!!...we have fresh clean water.That easy a caveman can do it.

Patience is a virtue. The kit really works. 1st, lift the front plate of the ice dispencer by placing a flat head screw driver into the two slots at the bottom of the panel. When the panel is lifted up slightly at the bottom, push up on the panel to remove it. Careful not to break panel and the wires attached. Next, remove the wiring panel by removing the two screws on left and right sides. Then, unplug the old black ice cover from the wiring panel (this is the heating plug that you will nolonger need). Next, remove the parts and replace them with the parts in the kit, noting where each part comes from, etc. All parts in the kit are necessary and should be used. Some of the replacements need trial and error. Patience will be important. Also needed is a person that loves to solve problems, especially because the kit does not come with instructions. But the kit definitely works!

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6")
2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec)
3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec)
3) removed the fan motor (1")
4) put in the new fan motor (1")
5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec)
6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec)
7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6")
Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.

Because the lower cams are made out of hard plastic the repeated opening and closing of the door wore them out. The hardest part was taking all of the food that is normally stored in the door.

First step was to determine whether the screws were metric or US standard - they are metric. The next step was to remove the top hinge in order to remove the door and replace the bottom cams and brackets. This took a couple of minutes, replacing the cams was about 5 minutes and putting the door back on the pivot and reattaching the top hinge was another couple of minutes.

If I had called a service tech they would have charged a minimum of two hour and for the parts. I estimate that I saved myself about $100.

First I'd like to tell you about the problem. You might have the same.

I found out that the diffuser was the problem. It sits on the top of the wall in the fridge towards the freezer side. No cold air would come in from the freezer. A little electrical motor inside the diffuser was working (one could here some clicking inside the diffuser), but the plastic piece, that is connected to the motor, was broken at the wheel of the motor (I opened up the old unit to look for the problem). So, it could not do its job, closing and opening the little windows to/from the freezer. It broke at a point where the windows/openings where closed, and in turn no cold air was coming in from the freezer side to cool the fridge.

Replacing this thing is pretty simple. I'll be very detailed, so it might look like it's a lot, but it really isn't.

In the fridge:
make some room for you to move around: take out the stuff on the top shelf. Remove the long plastic cover from the diffuser towards the door; it's only one screw. Then remove the cover for the diffuser; again it's only one screw (you won't see this screw if you do not remove the long piece first). Unplug the electrical connectors (2) from the diffuser. Also remove the thermo-lines (2); one comes from the freezer and one from the fridge. You might have to cut some tape. If you can not remove the thermo lines at this point, then wait; I'll mention them again.

Now inside the freezer:
clear out all the stuff that is placed on the top shelf(s) to get access to the cover that sits directly at the back wall inside the freezer. It's only fastened by two clips at the back of the cover. Once removed (pull it towards yourself), remove the large airflow piece that is directed towards the ice maker; it's fastened by two (2) screws, I think they were 7mm heads. Also remove the small air flow piece that is connected to the diffuser. You should now have enough room to loosen the diffuser. Just move in the four (4) "feet" from the diffuser towards the center of the hole and then push them through to the fridge side. Take out the diffuser from the fridge side. If a thermo line is still attached, remove it. Installation is just about the reverse. It should not take more than 30 min to do this. Hope it will fix your problem. As always, take good care of anything you are doing!

Motor from Part Select was 185W instead of 260W that came out of unit. After a bit of searching online, I found out the 260W had been obsoleted for lack of torque when harvesting ice.

Removal instructions: Unplugged fridge. Then I removed the screw on the bottom right rear of the unit. Then removed the plastic cover that covered the power connector. Pulled out the icemaker by pushing in the tab on the bottom left middle of the icemaker unit and pulling unit toward me. Unplugged the connector on the back right hand side. Removed the cover on the left side covering motor. Took out 3 philips screws and removed old motor with broken axle that spun freely (the source of the clicking noise). Put new motor in aligning harvest arm (the thing with the fingers) and did reverse of removal. Then plugged fridge back in and it started a harvest and the next morning I had a half tub of ice.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

Did the diagnostics with the blinking light and couldn't decide what was bad....so ordered the control boards and the module motor assm. also. Turned out that it was the control boards and would suggest that future customers order that part first...if it isn't that then get the module and motor assm......these guys ship really fast and the prices are literally half of what Sears would charge, not to also mention the cost of their service man to walk through your door...OUCH!

Unplug the refrigerator. Snap off the ring surrounding the dispenser from the bottom. There are two slots on the bottom. This is the toughest part of the repair because my refigerator is older and the part stuck. Then unscrew the two hex screws and unsnap the parts, then reassemble with the new parts. Snap the ring back on and you're all set. Pretty easy.

I first removed the power cord of the refrigerator from the receptacle. I then removed the screws (3 each) from both the emitter and receiver face plates with a phillips screw driver. I than carefully removed the connector to the each of the circuit boards. A simple pull maneuver. I removed the circuit boards from the face plates. I took the new parts and put them back in reverse order. I put the power cord back in the receptacle.

My troubleshooting narrowed down the problem to either the control assembly or the thermostat, so I bought both just in case. The motor assembly fixed the problem and I didn't need to install the thermostat.

The main thing I want to tell others who are doing this repair, however, relates to the thermostat. If you do indeed need to replace the thermostat (#PS380941) there is something you will need that is not included with the part or mentioned anywhere on this site. The instructions with the thermostat indicate you need to apply something called "Aluminastic" to the thermostat when installing it. I don't know about you, but that isn't something I have around the house, so be sure to order a tube of it when you get the thermostat so you don't have to take a trip to the store to get it to finish the repair.

The side by side refrigerator was warm on the fridge side, but good on the freezer side. I suspected the fridge thermostat and replaced it. That wasn't it. And because of the amount of frost the warm fridge was generating in the freezer the defrost module went out. After that I replaced the broken diffuser (original problem), which was very easy. You need to take the plastic shroud off of the top back of the freezer. You then will see four prongs holding the diffuser in, which is on the fridge side back left side. Unhook the two plugs and unsnap the one thermostat lead and you are good to go. I should have replaced the diffuser right from the start. If you use a mirror you can see if the diffuser is opening and closing properly.
Questions- email me- sir_jeremy@yahoo.com

Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'