KSM88PSQ2CB0 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

I actually didn't do the repair. I asked a friend who was a carpenter about what he thought was wrong with my mixer since it only had high speed which made mixing flour a snow storm. He said when his tools do that, it's the brushes. He ordered new ones and presto - my mixer works marvelously. He saved me from dumping a good mixer and $$$$$$$.

unscrewed the screw holding the old brush. carefully removed the spring and old broken brush. we did have some of the old brush left inside, so my husband used a very thin drill bit to break it up. then carefully inverted the stand mixer to allow the broken pieces to fall out. then we were able to install the new brush. works great. yeah!!

remove 6 screws for top of unit, remove gear assymble (23 screws), reassmbly and test it works great

We followed the you tube instructional video. It was excellent with good advice that kept us out of trouble. My mixer works like new again.

Took the old feet (5) off and put new on the Kitchen Aide, looks great. Stands high and your assistance on the phone, was so appreciated.

first removed the dress ring by tapping it very gently.then drive the pin out that holds the beater plate on, now wiggle it off, then you can see the screws that hold the gear reducer on. remove them. take that off and you will see the housing that hold the worm gear. remove the 3 screws that hold it down . Now you will have to drive the drift pin out that holds the worm gear in place, slide the shaft out then remove gear. reverse order to assemble

My early '60's Kitchenaid K45 mixer screw cap/base plate would no longer hold the bowl, so I looked for another. This item, though not an exact replica of the original, fit and works great. The design is better by being more stout than the original. Pretty straightforward installation: remove three screws, take out old base plate, install new plate and screw down.

Very messy as there is lots of heavy grease inside the mixer and you have to fish out the blown gear parts. I vary glad I took shop class in High school as it preped me for the job. The machanical drawing you provide were very useful but you should mention the grease.

Mixer works just like new. and I got the parts in two days with standard shipping. Pizza on Thursday and fixed by Saturday

total replacement
works beautifully

Took the mixer apart and cleaned the grease so off I could see the pins. Wasn't a hard fix only thing is make sure to clean the grease off so you can see what your doing

Obviously the problem was in the gear box of the mixer. I disassembled the gear box by removing the four large screws holding the base then the four screws at the rear and center of the mixer. Then I removed the thin metal ring covering the five screws around the front of the housing by gently prying up with a small screwdriver. The five screws beneth the ring have to be removed with a small blade screwdriver turning them a round at a time in sequence until they are free. Gently pry the two housings apart with a screwdriver and lift our the lower half with the plantary gears. I found the drive gear was stripped. I went to PartSelect on the web, eaisly found the exploded view of the mixer's gear box and ordered the gear I needed. The gear is part of an assembly attached to the mixer housing with three screws. Work around the lubricant in the housing. Within four days I received the new gear, installed it by reversing the above procedures and the mixer is working again. The total cost was $34.85. Not a bad investment considering the mixer cost over $400 and would have been trashed for want of one part.

‘Can’t remember well enough to describe accurately. Removed one screw to remove rear cover. Removed two screws to remove bright-metal band - probably not necessary but it did yield a bit more working space. IIRC, three screws and removing wires from spade-connectors was sufficient to remove the speed control plate. Remove one more screw to remove phase control board (probably unnecessary). I took close-up pictures with my iPhone first to assure wires would get replaced on the proper lugs (only to discover the wiring diagram later). Adjusting the control plate to meet the speed criteria in the instructions was very easy. It did serve to remind me that I probably didn’t need either of the new parts; readjusting the old speed control plate would probably have done it. But I appreciate the POM brought on by the new parts.

It’s an incredible pleasure to work on something so well-made as this old Kitchen-Aid mixer. I just enjoyed handling it! Having achieved a proper repair was rather satisfying too. I just loved the entire experience!

I disassembled the mixer using a YouTube video as a guide. Disassembly was easy, as everything was held together with pins and threaded fasteners, and all electrical connections were plug-on.

Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.

I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.

Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.

The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.

Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!

Followed step-by-step video instructions for dis-assembly/reassembly found at ereplacementparts.com. All went well except when driving out the pin that holds the worm gear in the tower. The video wasn't exactly clear enough about what position the pin should be in when driving it out and I inadvertently drove the pin out so that it was trapped inside the tower assembly. Result? I had to bend the pin to get it out, causing an extra expenditure and wait time to order a new pin. So, lesson learned: be sure the pin is horizontal to the tower and not perpendicular to when driving the pin out. Also, I found that having the mixer apart was a good time to replace the grease in the housing. I don't think it would be required to replace the grease at this time but I was worried that pieces of the old worm gear could remain in the grease and possible get jammed in the gears after repairs were completed. Be sure to get a "food grade" grease not grease from your local auto parts store! The table knife was the best tool to use to remove the grease and to smear the grease all over the internal gears when replacing it.

Inserted new pin and tightened set screw.