KRFC302EBS09 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The video on website is very good and explains everything in detail. Just follow the directions. This is EASY!!!!

removed ice maker and wire shelf. removed back panel screws and tilted forward. removed 2 screws holding motor bracket. swapped fan blade and reassembled

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

We had periodic leaks from under the Unit from new, could never figure out where it was coming from. Finally as it began to cause damage to surrounding cabinets, we took the back off and found the multiple cracks in the drip pan. Someone had hand trucked it from the wrong side! It was difficult to figure out the fan removal (it sits in the pan) but push the top forward and pull the bottom back and the fan came out. Then the pan was simple to remove / replace, by reversing the removal procedure, the fan was re installed.

Pull out old module...
Remove 2 wires...
Tape to inside wall [don't want them to fall down into side panel]..

Order new switch..

Fed Ex pkg came on 2nd day..

Install wires on switch...
Press into opening...
Check door light on..[OK]
.. Done

Removed the grill and control cover in the top middle of the main compartment, removed the control, unplugged it and put in the new one. The thing that took the longest was figuring out that this was the part that needed replacing. The fridge is less than two years old and about 6 months ago the control started making these odd noises. Now it's quiet. Ah peace!

Perhaps a helpful hint:

When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection.
I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.

LG

Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.

Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.

Thanks John Paulsell

snapped old part out , snapped new part in -as easy as that -shipment of part took 2 days - no problems and no issues. whole repair took just a few minutes-very satisfied, very happy .

Unfolded gasket and heated with a hair dryer to soften and straighten it. Pulled old gasket out by prying straight out from door channel. Start at bottom corners so that gasket is hanging free when finished. Starting at upper corner press new gasket into door channels. Proceed around perimeter pressing the gasket in and making sure the gasket is spread flat. Done.

Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

Obviously remove the glass shelf and supports plus all three drawers first. Being as there are no screws or visible means by which the Pantry Drawer End Cap is attached and being as the part entails removal of the vent slider from the back, there presents a problem. The backside of the end cap has hooks that clip into the side of the refrigerator wall. Use caution in raising the end cap up to release the clips. It does help using the screwdriver beneath the end cap and some movement with hands but it will come up along with the backside attachment. That isn’t the problem.
The difficulty is in (1) noting and remembering how the assembly came off and apart. (2) Putting the moving parts inside of the end cap like they came out and (3) replacing the back and side at the same time. The back assembly has a clip that inserts to the left. It is important to insert that first. The side portion inserts by placing above the slots and pushing in (to the right) and down at the same time. It all comes together and you will wonder how you did it.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.