KEYL405WAL0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

Turned off my circuit breaker first. Removed back panel with a 1/4 nut driver. Replaced the dryer fuse first. Very easy but did not fix the problem. Watched how to videos to narrow down the parts I might need. Purchased the thermal cut off kit. Installed the High limit thermostat first. Tested the dryer, no dice. Finally installed the Thermal cutoff. BAM!! I have heat. Since this is an older dryer I did need to use some WD40 to loosen some of the connections. Total cost of parts including tax and quick delivery was $48.30. Fantastic. My old man told me it was unfixable. He was wrong. I WIN. This site is a great teaching site. Thank you!

I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.

I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.

Replaced the Thermal Fuse first - 30% chance - didn't help! Then I replaced the resistor - Not an in-kind replacement - looks different-Guessed the wrong place first [no specific directions :( ] and got some sparks - Yikes! Picked the second place and installed the resistor and it work PERFECT. Spent Less than $50 and back in business = GREAT!!

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Cut power off , till over dryer, take bsce cover off, remove screw fron heating element pull out, vac all dirt up put new one in replace cover cut power bace on

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

Removed five rear cover screws, removed two timer mounting screws, and then replaced the clip-on timer wires one-at-a-time. Re-mounted the new timer and replaced the rear cover. The new part from PartSelect.com was an exact replacement that works perfectly. It was for a 15-year-old dryer that Whirlpool did not even list on their own parts replacement website. PartsSelect.com saved me from having to purchase a new appliance.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

Pull out the old lint filter unit; push in the new one.

Unplug unit first.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.

The dryer would dry the clothes fine and run through heat cycles and cool down. The timer would also run down, it just would stop even thought the heat stopped. To repair, I took the back off the timer portion of the dryer. At first I panicked. I did not see any part that looked like the new one I just ordered. I searched the internet and found that the original part looked like a black plastic loop with a black and orange wire connected to it. The part I got was the new design. Then I couldn't figure out if it mattered which end I hooked to the black wire. Another internet search showed it doesn't matter which way current flows through a resistor, so it didn't matter. Hooking in the new part was very easy. The time it took to get the information to identify the part, and determine if it matter which end to hook up to which wire took the longest. I would recommend PartSelect put a picture of the old style right beside the picture of the new style. Also would like them to make clear it doesn't matter which direction the Timer Power Resistor went in.