KEMC378HWH1 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.

1)Power off 2) Remove frame covering front timer display - screw on the bottom 3) unscrew time display - 4 screws 4) unsnap lamp spring clip 5)replace lamp

Once I figured out to get the door off, the actual replacement went well.
remove door, using allen wrenches in the holes of the door
remove outer glass - two screws on top, four screws along sides of inside door, two brackets on the bottom
that revealed anothe sheet of glass- held into place by a metal flange at the top (3 screws) and two brackets at the bottom. Pay close attention to how they are mounted for reassembly. They are the same physical configuration, but mount differently to hold glass up from the surface below
That reveals another sheet of glass held into place by two "ears" at the top and a bracket at the bottom.
When that is removed, the next thing to come off is a metal housing on which the glass just removed was mounted. I elected to leave the door hinge springs in place, and slide the metal housing in and out of position. That reveals the glass which needed replacement.
There is some insulation around the glass, but under the metal housing. It came out when I slid the metal out, which moved it from its location, but I think I got it back ok...be sure that it does not sitck out around the glass when you reassemble everything. Put everything back in place, replace the door and remove the allen wrenches. Done. Parts select had the product, and sent it very quickly.

Ordered the glass and read the other reviews/instructions on the PartSelect site. Also read the instructions in my owner's manual for removing the oven door. The hardest part of replacing the glass was the removal and replacement of the door. Once I had the door out, replacing the glass was as simple as removing about 8 or so screws, lifting off the cover and replacing the glass, then replacing the screws. One of the hinges on the door had closed and I was not able to open it to replace the door, so I had to have a neighbor come over to over his muscle power. The hinge problem should not have happened and without that little issue, this is a simple repair that I'm sure saved me at least $100.00 on repairman! And - I'm a woman!

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

I used the instructions from another user on this site and the instructions were great. First look in your oven manual to see how to get the oven off-hardest part of repair. Before removing door-duct tape the broken glass. Remove door. Lay door down on flat surface and keep track of screws as you take them out. Remove outer liner-we removed 6 screws total. Replace glass with new glass. Reattached outer liner back onto door. Replace door. This is a GREAT site. Thanks.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range back together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB

I looked at the schematic provided on the website and removed all of the screws wih a phillips head screwdriver. I took care not to scratch the stainless steel surface by placing the oven door on a carpet. I removed the old bent hinges and replaced them with the new hinges. I aligned the holes and replaced the screws. The entire job took about 20 minutes.

Took longer to take door off than replace glass.The door would have come off easy if I had read the instructions that came with the oven

This one is painted model and the door has 2 screws at the bottom and 2 at the top to take out to get the front of the door off. First remove the vent assembly at the bottom of the door by removing the 4 screws.Hold the door together(I finally used a big piece of masking tape to hold the door top together to get it back together). Take the bottom screws out first and then holding the door front from underneath open the door to get at the top 2 inside screw. and pull it away carefully from the inner door parts and lay it aside on a carpet of towel.Then the fun begins-takingout 2 screws holding the plastic inner door cover to get at the torsion springs at the bottom of the door. these screw ar near each end of the plastic part but the left one is directly above a vent sticking out fromthe back of the oven below. There is only about #/4- i inch space to get a screw driver onto the phillips head screw. I have alot of small screw driers butnot even aphillips head fro a drill driver is short enough to get into the space. I used apreviously bent small screwdiriver to get the screw out. I tried to bend another screwdrover to a shorter dostance but it snapped off in the bending process. I fanally got it out and replaced the broken spring. Tbouth a set of sprnings that were supposed to be the same for left and right sides so I decided to replace oth springs while I had it apart. The right side spring went in fairly easily after figuring out how th thread it into the holes. The unbroken spring wass not so easy. I finally idcovered that the new spring ws not bent the same as the original one and was not going to go in the place of the old one. I ended up putting the old one back in and putting the dooor together with a little difficulty. I replaced the bottom screw on the door with longer ones as well as the upper ones and got a much better job done.

I took out the old chipped dish and replaced with the new dish...

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

The instructions from another customer was helpful. I concur with another comment I read while researching this proceedure. What Idio-- would design a microwave that required pulling the unit from the wall and removing the top panel just to access. It is good idea to unplug the transformer and capacitor wires before proceeding. I also googled a schematic to see the parts layout. Remember not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Use a cloth or paper towel.

Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from bad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.