KEHC309JWH08 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Just had to remove the screws holding the outer part of the door on (didn't have to take off the entire door). Using the other door spring (most models have two that cross) as an example, the new spring was fairly easy to place. Only problem is that the new spring was made from a smaller gauge metal and is not nearly as strong as the original, making the door feel heavier when opening/closing than before. The difference with and without the 2nd spring is barely noticeable. Had I known that they were making the parts cheaper now, I would'nt have bothered fixing it at all.

The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.

Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install

I removed the door from the oven by locking the hinges with the built-in locks leaving the door open about 20 degrees. the door can then be lifted slightly off the hinges and pulled out at the bottom while tilting the top inward to remove it from the oven. With the door laying on a suitable surface with the outside face down, I removed about 6 or 8 screws from the door inside panel freeing the springs and the inside panel from the middle and front panels. Care must be taken to note from which locations the pointed self-taping screws come as opposed to the narrower-thread machine screws that hold the springs. Note: The inside panel does not need to be removed! Once the inside panel is freed from the inner panels, using suction cups the glass can be lifted slightly and slid toward the bottom of the door, rotated slightly, and removed through the window hole in the back face of the door. The new glass is installed in a similar way using suction cups by maneuvering it at a angle through window hole and into its frame. The hinges were replaced by lifting the bottom of the inner door panel slightly to clear the hinge and swapping in the new ones. Be sure to observe the difference between the left and right hinges in the location of the screw hole at the bottom of each hinge The narrow-thread machine screws that hold the hinges to the inside panel should be installed first while you can get you hand inside the door to hold each hinge in alignment with the screw holes while you start each screw. Re-install the pointed self tapping screws by pressing down on the rear panel to collapse the spring-action glass frames within the door so that the short screws will reach their threaded hole. Be careful to back off the self tapping screws first until you feel a click into the original threads to avoid stripping the holes. Last re-install the door on the oven. The replacement hinges should have come with the springs already "cocked" with the built in locks in place. Install the door with it in tan almost-closed position by sliding the hinge extensions into the slots in the oven. Once the extensions are properly in the slots the door can be fully opened and the built-in hinge locks re-positioned to the unlocked position to allow the door to fully close. Should you accidentally release only one of the hinge locks in trying to insert the hinge extensions into the slots you will have to reset the hinge. If the door is free from the oven, this may require a pair of heavy pliers, like channel lock pliers, to re-tension the hinge spring and "cock" the hinge extension by re-positioning the built-in lock in the locked position. If the hinge lock on one side of the door releases, but the the opposite side hinge extension is not fully inserted into the oven slot I recommend carefully moving the door to the fully open position, being careful to avoid twisting the inserted spring's extension, so that the hinge lock can be re-positioned to the locked position, the door full removed, and start again to install it. It helps to have two persons to hold opposite sides of the door for this operation as the door is heavy, but not essential. When in the proper position the hinge extensions may not appear fully inserted, but this is normal to allow for closing of the built in locks. It helps to observe how much of the hinge extension is exposed either before removing the door initially, or, if you have a double oven, looking at the hinges on the door of the other oven. Good luck with your repair.

The exact part for this oven is no longer available. I purchased one hat was close in size, but larger than the original. Upper and lower brackets hold the glass in place, so length was not a problem but height was. I removed the upper brackets, re-shaped them with the vise, a hammer and metal shears. The glass would now sit inside the bracket where the screws also went. I had to be quite careful the screws did not shatter the new glass.

The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)

Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.

Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.

Removed the 6 screws securing the door and inner frame unit. Lifted off the frame and inner glass unit. Then, after cleaning all the broken glass, put the new glass in; first reattaching the inner frame and then the outer door cover.

This is the third time that the bulb went out.It took two Sears service technitions to remove the entire appliance out of the cabinet. The entire top has to be removed and the insolation has to be pulled back to get to the electrical wire. I am waiting for an appointment to get Sears to do it again. The door springs have broken and you have to make sure the door is closed before walking away. It has a heavy glass and the weight is pretty heavy. Robert.

The other comments from folks who had done this were very helpful!
I had to go look up the directions for removing the door. To do this flip the latches on the hinges and then close the door as far as you can and pull up, it will come out.
Now lay the door flat on the kitchen counter and take out the 6 screws you can see on the edges and inside of the door. They are all the same so you don't have to keep them organized. Now you can take off the outer door with the handle (lift the inner door out since you will have the door face down at this point) and get it out if the way. Remove the hinges and set them aside but don't get them mixed up.
Next, take out the screws on the inner glass rails, there are two rails. Keep those rails in order for replacement. Take out the middle glass and clean it (this took oven cleaner and a razor blade on the one I had).
Take the middle of the door apart and expose the soft gasket (don't move it!). Clean out any broken glass and Insert your new glass. Put the middle piece of the door back on and line up all the screw holes! Put the first of the glass rails back on and the cleaned middle glass back in place, then the second glass rail. Put in the two screws that hold the glass rails.
Now you are ready to put the door back together. USE THE BOX TO HOLD THE DOOR OFF THE COUNTER WHILE YOU PUT THE HINGES BACK IN AND PUT THE DOOR FRONT BACK ON! If the screw holes don't all line up start the screws and work your way around, you'll get them to go in.
Voila! Door fixed.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

The replacement turntable we received was an exact duplicate of the original. It was as easy as rinsing the new turntable, taking the old turntable out and putting the new one in.

I am not the handiest guy around so i was a little nervous doing this job but figured i would take a crack at it ( no pun intended). Took the door off as per instructions from kitchenaid , unscrewed all the outer screws , took off the back of door unscrewed the metal bar holding the glass in ( there are 3 levels of glass) took the 2 good glass sheets out got to the broken glass removed that put the new one in , replaced all the other glass and screws and put door back on, and i felt so proud. Probably saved about 150 dollars by doing it myself. I feel so proud.

cut power off and placed sturdy table same height as bottom of oven in front of oven. removed trim screws. pulled oven out onto table. removed top cover and panel on left side . tested transformer to be sure it was bad. then replaced transforner

It was a matter of swapping out the old door with new door. In all, it was a snap . Around 10 screws to take it apart and a few brackets to hold it all together.

My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem