KBRS22KGAL0 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

carefully

I simply used my cordless drill with the right sized socket attachment to remove the screws. I left the door on which wasn't as difficult as I thought after reading other stories. I even had to contend with my three year old who wanted to know what was going on and if she could help. As my wife is deployed it falls to me to become both parents, watch after her and take care of chores. With all that said it still only took me about half an hour to replace the old gasket with the new one. As far as the gasket goes I wish the magnet was more powerful because there is still a gap unless you push and hold it closed for an extra second when closing the freezer. A pain but at least it is not torn. Before buying I recommend searching for a parts/service center that that talks about the whole part not just how to replace.

1- Remove food from freezer and store in ice chest
2- Turn off refrigerator
3- Remove freezer drawers, 2 drawers, no fastener
4- Remove freezer slide out drawer front , 2 screws
5- Remove ice cube tray holder, 2 screws
6- De-ice back panel with hair dryer / blower
7- Remove back panel in freezer, 8 screws
8- Defrost refrig coil with hair dryer / blower
9- Unplug Bimetal Thermostat, 2 wires, orang / brn
10- Remove Bimetal Thermostat from coil, 1 clip
11- Install new Bimetal Thermostat
12- Re-assemble, reverse order

Removed screws to pull the part out and took fan off. Put fan back on the new part and put it back in place. Runs very quiet !!!

Thanks !

Slid the end caps onto the shelf, placed the tape on the pieces as noted in the directions, and put the shelf back in place. Fast service, exact part, easy to find on the web site! Great!

First I removed the cover to the evaporator in the freezer section and found the coil iced up, then I turned the defrost timer until it clicked into the defrost mode, the heaters came on so I left the timer in the defrost mode to defrost the coil, it stayed on and did not change. The timer motor was bad, I ordered a new part and had to manually defrost the refrigerator by turning the timer. To replace the part I had to first unplug the power cord then pull the kick plate off at the front of the refrigerator and remove two screws that hold the timer in place, then pull it out unplug the electric plug in the new timer secure it with the two screws and put the kick plate back in place. I then plugged in the power cord and the refrigerator came on as is now working great..

First we read all the comments by other handymen. This was really helpful. Then we took the door off and removed the old gasket with a nut driver. We tried to slip the new gasket under the edge with a thin spatula and didn't have much luck. Then we remembered someone saying that is was a good time to take the door apart and check to see if there was ice build up in the door. It was so bad we took out the frozen insulation and replaced it with new....$4.00 at the hardware store. While the door was apart we put the gasket on and put it in place and tightened it to the door. This worked very well for us. This saved us from having to buy a new refrigerator/ freezer. Thanks.

I loosened(but did not remove) the 1/4" sheetmetal screws around the perimeter of the door liner. (they are numerous and they are hidden in the fold of the gasket) I removed the old gasket. With the screws still loose, I installed the new gasket. After insallation I re-tightened the liner screws. Several gaps were noted and eliminated by gently heating the gasket with a hair dryer. (be patient , it takes some time)

There were no instructions with the new gasket which made the job difficult. After great difficulty I called an appliance store and learned that the gasket should be soaked for several minutes in very hot water to make it pliable and easier to install. Also, the plastic insert that the gasket fits into should only be loosened and not removed when inserting the gasket. Lastly, the door should be removed and placed on a table to allow leverage to be applied. Installing it while still on the door is almost impossible.

Started with internet searches then began with removal of wall plate at back of freezer, pulled power cord first. Found evaporator coil completely frozen over.Went back to internet and searched possible causes. It seemed to me that the auto defrost system may not be functioning properly so I considered possible causes. Defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or possibility heater itself. I chose to go with simple stuff first and thought heater would have a better relibility characteristic. Went to Parts select got part numbers and was able to find part locations on the appliance. So far so good, and knock on wood! Thanks Parts select I spent $50 bucks instead of $1000.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.

I have a side by side Amana fridge about 12 years old. One day I noticed everything was not cold anymore. I checked the temp with my infrared thermometer and it was about 70 in the top of the fridge, 40-50 in the bottom, and freezer was the same! So after pulling out the two baskets in the bottom of the freezer and the side rails that hold the baskets, I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the back lower panel. After looking at the electrical schematic on the back of the fridge, I jumpered around the defrost thermostat, a little cylinder with two wires coming out of it. Bingo, the fan turned on. Well after a few days of running fine with it jumpered my new one arrived. I never really tested my old one with a meter so I did that and it tested fine, so I plugged the old one back in and it worked fine for a few days. Then one day I noticed that fan wasn't running again so I just put the new one in. I had to cut one of the connectors off as it was female instead of male and crimp cap it together, but besides that it went fine. So after connecting it I noticed the fan motor was buzzing but not spinning. I wiggled wires around and determined the connector going into the fan motor had to be a certain way to make the connection. I unplugged it, it wasn't corroded or anything but if pulled down on, it would not make connection. So pulling up on the connector proved that it would make good connection, so a ziptie keeping the wires tight in the up direction proved to be the solution. I'm pretty sure my old defrost thermostat was not the problem. So that's my story. Hope it helped.

Watched the video you posted with the part and getting the gasket to fit like he did was not as easy as he made it look. Took me a few hours and before I was done the lights went out from a power failure but I was able to finish because the drill was battery operated. I may have saved money doing it myself but not time.

Repaired as others have described - simply component part replacement. However, the fan blade shaft on the replacement motor was slightly smaller in diameter such that once the original fan blade was placed on it and the fan was running, the fan blade slid all the way down on the shaft and made contact with the motor. I had to use duct tape to increase the shaft diameter and then put the fan blade on. Running perfectly now.