KBRS20EVBL2 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

Unscrewed all related parts and also took out drawers and glass shelf. Reused plastic slider which raps around right corner to the back wall of the unit. Make sure to remember how this plastic slider fits into the new end cap, it is a little tricky putting it back without cracking it. Suggest take a digital picture as to how it fits together before taking the slider out of the old end cap. Reinstall same way as you took it out. Good time to clean while everything is out of the bottom of the refrigerator.

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

When the gasket is delivered it will be folded. You will need to unfold it and leave it on a flat surface for several days. Keep it as square as possible, and heat the kinked portions with a hair dryer on high heat and slow fan while molding kinked portions with your hands for 30 to 60 seconds at a time. Do that 2-3 times per day. When it looks 90% uniform with the non kinked portions, you can install it. Installation takes less than 10 minutes. Clean the metal edge of the freezer well. I recommend taking the door annd frame off (This is remarkably easy. THe door and frame pretty much lifts up and out after you hold the rail clips inward) because the lower edge is so close to the floor. The just pulll off the old gasket. There are no screws or clips. Starting in any corner, press new gasket into place. Go around the perimeter several times to make sure it is pushed in fully and evenly. Then reinstall the door and frame.

I brought you the exploded view of the crisper parts on your website and proceeded accordingly. Besides the three nuts holding the end cap to the frig interior wall the temperature adjustment linkage had to be disassembled on reassemblied on the new replacement end cap. Plastic linkage parts present the problem of breakage, so one must be careful during the disassembly process. Some other type of fasteners for the linkage assembly (screw and nut, ball and socket) would be prefereable. All and all, its a machine. Wtith exploded view, what could go wrong?

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

Disconnect power to unit, shut off water supply, remove back panel change out valve, repeat steps 1-3 in reverse run water through system for about 5 min removing all air from lines

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

Looked at the new part to determine what I would need to remove the old part. It was very easy to figure out. I removed the old end cap by taking out the screws. Once the screws were out I popped the side of the end cap off. There is a horizontal piece along the back wall that is connected to the end cap. On the left side of this piece of plastic there is a small tab that clicks into the back wall. On the right hand end cap there is a sliding lever which controls the air in the deli tray. This control is made of plastic and appears to be pretty fragile> By gently bending this lever I was able to remove the control lever and install it on the new end cap. In all it took me about 15 minutes to complete the entire job. Very easy.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

The parts were very easy to replace, however I am still without ice and cannot figure out why. I have ohm tested the contol unit and everything works fine, I am able to jump it and turn on the motor and water fill valve. Any suggestions?...

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

Snapped in new part