KBRS20ETSS11 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

First, I removed the Climate control drawers, the lower shelf pieces and the Chef's Pantry drawer so I had room to work.

Next, I unfastened the two screws that held the pantry drawer gilder on the broken righthand end cap and removed the glider.

With a socket tool, I unfastened the three socket-head mounting screws that held the endcap to the refrigerator wall.

The righthand endcap has a climate control adjustment mechanism which includes a finger slider and an extenson bar snapped to the backside of the endcap. This extension bar connects with another bar mounted to back inside of the refrigerator.

I carefully disconnected the climate control mechanism fixed to the refrigerator from the endcap.

With the endcap out of the refrigerator, I next had to disconnect the climate control slide and extension bar from the broken endcap by unclipping several snaps holding these pieces in place.

Now with the new endcap, I clipped the extension bar in place, snapped the finger silder in place, and reconnected this assembly to the climate control bar in the refrigerator and clipped the mechanism to the rear of the endcap.

The socket mounting screws were used to fasten the endcap to the wall. The pantry drawer glider was attached to the endcap with it's screws. The shelves and climate control drawers were put back. Finally, I carefully snapped the Pantry door to the hinge pins on both the left and the (new) right end caps and put the pantry drawer back.

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.

Refrigerator was stored for about 2 years and we picked it up when the owner decided to move into an apartment and no longer needed to unit (lost home to foreclosure). Brought the unit home and it worked great for about 3 days. On the third day my wife noticed a slight electrical burning smell. I did also and quickly emptied the unit and hoped for the best. The unit did indeed stop working. I fancy myself a do it myselfer but I would normally not go near electricity but thought what the heck it was free if i ruin it I would give it away. After a little research i found Partselect and they had a great design and a few stories that sounded similar so i pulled the relay capacitor for the compressor and sure enough the unit showed burn marks where the unit had shorted out. Maybe a bug got in there or water, dirt but I ordered the part. I arrived in two days which was great. I installed the part and plug the unit in and crossed my fingers. Very happily the unit clicked on and has been running great ever since. thanks Partselect, while I may not be one of your big customers I will refer anyone with appliance issues to your site first.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

It was great. We replaced the thermistor A little difficult to get to the thermistor but once we found it five minutes. My refrigerator seems happy but we will monitor it and see.

The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!

Gain access to rear of refrigerator. Use protective board to prevent marring floor. Unplug refrigerator. Turn off water supply and depressurize line. Remove old water filter head. Disconnect filter head inlet water supply line located behind the refrigerator. Disconnect the filter head filtered water return line at the water valve. From refrigerator interior, disconnect the lower filter water cover. Press the outer cover away from filter head until one end is free of the water filter head tang and remove cover from second tang. Push the Styrofoam "block fill" toward the rear of the refrigerator to remove it. If you try to remove this from the outside by pulling it, it will likely break. Pull water filter head assembly to remove it. Install new part by reversing the steps.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

4-Screws 3 plactic hoses to remove pull 3 tubes out and instol new part last then 15 min. Making shure is no leaks. Easy

For replacing end cap, LH pantry part:
removed large pantry drawer
removed two small upper pantry drawers
removed glass panel and long braces---all these parts required no tools
used 1/4" nut driver to remove 3 screws from broken end cap, LH pantry part and shook it to release it from the refrigerator
used phillips head screw driver to remove drawer arms
replaced metal drawer arms to new end cap, LH pantry part
attached new end cap, LH panrty part to refigerator and finised by using nut driver on all 3 screws. then replaced other pantry dawers, glass shelf, and pantry cover. EASY!

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

noticed the fridge and frezzer were not cold one day.i got on google and typed in the problem and found out the the relay goes bad rather often. was an easy fix. found the parts here on partselect and recieved in with in 2 days of ordering. pulled the old part out put new part in and plugged fridge in and was back up and running with in minutes..thank you partselect....

I loosened the two top screws, removed the bottom screw, lifted up on ice maker and slid it off, unplugged the wire from refrig. I transfered the wire to the new icemaker, pluged it back in, placed it on the two screws, installed lower screw, tighten top screws. Total time spent less than 15 minutes. The ice maker cost $125.00 with freight. Sears wanted $374.00

To keep from having to pay the appliance repairman $100.00 for a diagnostic fee I just started replacing parts that were known for causing this problem. First I replaced the compressor switch and capacitor that didn't work so then I replaced the damper controller then I replaced the control board then I saw that the evaporator fan wasn't spinning so I replaced the evaporator fan motor and the bimetal defrost thermostat. That was the problem I wish I would have checked that first. But it works like new now.

First turned off the water at the valve. Next I undid the 5 screws holding the plate that holds the pump. Next disconnected the power connectors, then the water lines. Next undid the screw holding the pump, removed pump. Next, mounted the new pump to the plate, this was tricky because it has to fit kind of upside down, so you have to wrangle it into the proper position then align the screw hole. Next, secured it to the plate with the screw, re-connected the water lines, then the power. Before mounting it back to the fridge, I tested to see if it worked, well, it didn't. My heart sank. I re-checked all connections, I redid the entire process, disconnected and re-connected and still did not work. I researched the problem online and someone posted maybe the water filter might be clogged or defective. So I removed the water filter and put the stop plug in, and it worked perfectly. I went and exchanged the filter and plugged it in and still had the same problem. I am now suspecting the filter receptacle is the fault, but we will do without that for the time being. But the pressure is much better so changing the pump was still necessary. All in all a very interesting repair. I learned a lot about how the system works and now I need to replace the damper, it is very noisy.