KBFS20ETWH01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I ordered a right & left gasket but when they arrived there was no indication of which was the right or left one...so I just had to guess...I easily lifted the old gasket away from the door & removed. Then starting at the top began inserting the portion that goes into the groove with the help of the table knife, continuing down both sides..then sat on a stool to push the bottom section into place...Had to go back over several areas to reseat but finally closed the door to hopefully set the gasket..Drank some hot tea, then removed the left gasket & began the process all over...The extra flaps ended up on the left side of the door so I may have to remove this side and reposition...I'll check it in a few..then will blow all with a warm setting of the low dryer to continue helping the molding process..

Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.

Loosen 4 screws remove door wipe off frost pull old gasket out of slot push in new gasket instal door that was it. No help need.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Well folks I put up with an ice burg all summer when I really should have took the time to fix it. You know how it goes though. You get so busy you just put it off.
Well don't put this one off because this is just how easy it went.
I came home one evening and wanted to make a drink to relax but that big glob of ice was there waiting for me. I took a crewdriver and beat it down so I could pull the catch basin out. Having looked it over for a minute I grabed a nut driver and took three of the screws out that held it in. I unpluged the wire and bingo it was out. Maybe five min. had elasped.
After taking the unit out I notice how the non stick surface was coming off of the tray and that explains the black pieces that were getting into my ice.
Getting the model number off the back of the fridge and writing it down I went to my trusty lap top and did a quick search for a ice maker for my Jenn Air refrigeraton and blamo...! Part Select came up and I put the part number in their search engine and bingo again there it was, my part.
One quick order and in three days it was right there by my door when I got home.
Now i'm so excited. I went into the house and didn't even chage out of my dress clothes. Within five minutes it was in. Now I just had to wait for the timer to do it's thing and sure enough, I awoke the next morning to a whole tray of beautiful ice cubes. Wow no more ice burgs.
The moral of my story is I spent so much time hacking out that glob of ice and for fifteen minutes of my time, I could have been siping on cold ones by the pool but now old man winter is pressing down on me and I guess a lesson learned was a lesson earned. Fix it!

1 screw remove assembly. Unplug cable harness and remove old cover and wire arm. Replace cover and wire arm and attach wire harness on assembly end. Re attach using screw removed in first step. Plug in wire harness. Making ice within 30 minutes.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

unsrewed the back plate, removed three tubes. Then I removed old valve and replaced with new. Pluged two harnesses back in the new valve. Truned water on and checked for leaks and operated the filtered water tap and the ice maker. All went well.
I really like your site for the pictures included with the part, I like to see what I'm ordering.

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

The old gasket peeled out easily. No tools needed. The replacement gasket fit right in the groove. I did not need to immerse the gasket in warm water or use a hair dryer. Nifty trick: once the new gasket is in place, close the freezer door. Run your finger in the center groove of the gasket, which will push the magnet against the fridge. Leave the door closed for an hour. The gasket has then assumed a perfect fit and will continue to fit perfectly.

Awesome! Couldn't ask for it any better. I watched the video from Partselect multiple time and was just as easy as they said it would be. It took me longer to watch the video four times than it did for me to install it. I have a habit of 10 minute projects turning into a couple hours and this took about 10 minutes. Thanks.

1. Remove all drawers {3}, shelves {glass 1}, shelf support {1}. 2. Remove two {2} screws from End Cap. 3. Carefully remove End Cap and drawer temperature control part on the back wall keeping them aligned as installed. The part on the back wall swings out so that the tab on the left end of the piece may be withdrawn from the securing slot (hole). The two parts should be carefully removed while keeping the two parts at a right angle the way they are installed. The reason for this caution follows. 4. On the back side of both parts are plastic pieces that, I believe, can be easily broken if you are not aware. The pieces are connected together at the right angle. They are the control arms for the temperature control -- on right side End Cap only -- the left side doesn't have them or the rear part on the back wall. 5. The pieces must be disconnected and removed. You must examine and ponder how they are held in place and hooked together in order to disconnect and remove them without damaging them. The same advice is applicable to reinstalling the pieces in the new part -- End Cap. 6. After reassembled and keeping the two parts at a right angle, insert the tab on the left end of the back wall part into the slot (hole) and swing the two parts back into position. 7. Replace the screws. 8. Done, reinstall the shelf, shelf support, and the drawers. NOTE: I ordered the two screws but they were not needed.

The video was a great help. I was able to replace gaskets on both doors with out taking them off and no tools were needed.
One of the refrigerator doors has a plate that closes with the door that makes replacing the gasket questionable but I was able to do it with no problem.