Models > JVM2070SH001

JVM2070SH001 General Electric Microwave - Overview

Sections of the JVM2070SH001

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Manuals & Care Guides for JVM2070SH001

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Grease Filter – Part Number: WB06X10288
Grease Filter
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(12)
PartSelect #: PS227998
Manufacturer #: WB06X10288
This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. This part is sold individually.
$20.11
  In Stock
FUSE – Part Number: WB27X10928
FUSE
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(18)
PartSelect #: PS1481237
Manufacturer #: WB27X10928
$8.91
  In Stock
Halogen Light Bulb – Part Number: WB36X10213
Halogen Light Bulb
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★★★★★
(32)
PartSelect #: PS651484
Manufacturer #: WB36X10213
This halogen light bulb is an inch and a half long. Carrying 120 volts and 20 watts, it is used with some microwave ovens.
$12.67
  In Stock
Glass Light Lens – Part Number: WB36X10071
Glass Light Lens
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(21)
PartSelect #: PS247275
Manufacturer #: WB36X10071
The microwave glass light lens protects the light bulb inside the appliance. It is clear in color and measures approximately 6-1/2 inches long, and 2-1/2 inches wide. You may notice that this part is ...
$13.49
  In Stock
Secondary Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X829
Secondary Door Switch
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(41)
PartSelect #: PS237421
Manufacturer #: WB24X829
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates w...
$34.64
  In Stock
Glass Cooking Tray – Part Number: WB49X10063
Glass Cooking Tray
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(20)
PartSelect #: PS250009
Manufacturer #: WB49X10063
This tray rotates in your microwave ensuring more even temperatures and is approx.14-1/2 inches in diameter.
$82.14
  In Stock
Charcoal Filter – Part Number: WB02X10956
Charcoal Filter
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(15)
PartSelect #: PS951943
Manufacturer #: WB02X10956
This filter cannot be cleaned. It must be replaced.
$24.44
  In Stock
Monitor Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X830
Monitor Door Switch
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(11)
PartSelect #: PS237422
Manufacturer #: WB24X830
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Rem...
$28.25
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WE02X10086
Screw
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS3511445
Manufacturer #: WE02X10086
Sold individually.
$6.26
  In Stock
Rack Holder – Part Number: WB06X10521
Rack Holder
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS952350
Manufacturer #: WB06X10521
Sold individually.
$10.23
  On Order

Questions And Answers for JVM2070SH001

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    Eric
    December 19, 2019
    Hello. My microwave shuts off after running a few seconds. Any idea on why this happens?
    For model number JVM2070SH001
    Hi Eric, Thank you for your question. If the microwave runs for a few seconds and then shuts off, the door switches may be defective or loose. Sometimes the door switches will arch or overheat and this will prevent the microwave from working correctly and it will shut off. The microwave may also shut off because of either a defective touchpad or control panel, a malfunctioning voltage transformer, a faulty cooling fan or a clogged vent. You will need to check each part and verify which one is causing the issue. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

    1 person found this helpful.

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      Common Symptoms of the JVM2070SH001

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      Won’t turn on
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      No heat
      Fixed by
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      Doesn’t shut off
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      Touchpad does not respond
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      Tray won’t turn
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      Noisy
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      Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
      Microwave completely stopped working
      Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

      First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

      The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
      Parts Used:
      FUSE
      • Kim from Cliffside Park, NJ
      • Difficulty Level:
        Really Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        15 - 30 mins
      • Tools:
        Screw drivers
      864 of 1107 people found this instruction helpful.
      Dirty filter - replacement filter installed
      Manually with no tools
      Parts Used:
      Grease Filter
      • Laura from Sugar Grove, IL
      • Difficulty Level:
        Really Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        Less than 15 mins
      534 of 608 people found this instruction helpful.
      light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
      Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
      Parts Used:
      Secondary Door Switch
      • Marla from Arlington, TX
      • Difficulty Level:
        Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        Less than 15 mins
      • Tools:
        Screw drivers
      286 of 323 people found this instruction helpful.