JVM1350BWC02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

Phillips screws on bottom panel allowed me to install new socket and put electric connection back. Secured bottom panel and that was it.

Handed the part to my son. He unscrewed 5 screws in the base of the microwave, it dropped down. The light mechanism was clearly in view. With the exception of some corrosion on the old piece, it was simple to remove and replace, put back together, screw back up and all worked fine.

The repair was relatively ease. I have to tell you that what helped me the most was reading the experiences others had had. The repair took me qabout 7 minutes. Simply take a puddy knife and carefully take out the ring around the glass on the indide of the door. Once removed you will see the botoom screw. The upper screw is very visible. Remove the two screws and replace....its that ease.

There was one screw on top that was easily accessable, but the lower one is hidden. I first removed the door seal that goes around the outside of the door but, that didn't expose the screw. On the inside of the door there is a seal just for the glass window. I used a butter knife to open just a section of it and it immediately exposed the screw that I needed to remove.

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

The Parts select diagram and order ing process made it very easy to complete my repair job. After receiving my parts, I unscrewed the screws with a phillips driver. Then I popped out the handle. There is one tricky part - the screw is a bit too small for the existing whole and so I added a washer to fix this problem. I then slide in the new handle. Very easy!

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Placed the screws in the proper areas, used the screw driver to tighten down and I was in business with light to spare. I am happy to have found the proper screws.
Thank you.

Turned the power to the unit off. Removed seven- (7) small screws from the base plate, not removing the rear screws. The plate dropped a few inches allowing me to get to the light socket. I removed one- (1) screw that allowed the socket to be removed. I then detached the two- (2) electrical leads. I now installed the new socket, replacing the leads and the screw along with a new bulb. I pushed the bottom plate back into the up position and replaced the seven- (7) screws. Turned the power back on and we were good to go.