JVM1350BWC01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

I removed the unit from the wall removed the top two screws holding the panel above the door I the two screws holding the control panel removed the three switchs I found the top one to be blown and replaced it

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

Removed control panel first then removed bracket holding door switches 8 screws total very easy fix ????

I removed both sockets from the microwave and when your part arrived, I installed them both including the new lights. The work perfectly and it was very easy to put them in. I also appreciate the speed of delivery and your concern for my feed back on the product. I have you number in my contact list and should I need another part, I'll check with your first.
thanks you

first i remove the screw, then removed the lens assembly (really a frame) bent the feet out of the way, slid the old lens out and the new one in, bent the feet back in place and inserted the assembly into place replaced screw. the killer is a day later it was broken again, think the lens can't handle the heat from the oven below or the lights above. you guys where great fast and exact match part but the ge design is flawed

Took the screw out of the glass door holder, bent the clips up and removed the broken glass. While this was open chenged the light bulbs as well. Put new glass in bent the holding clips down and closed the doors and installed the screws again. So nice to have good light again and also new glass in them. Never noticed they were broken before.

BY THE WAY PARTS SELECT IS VERY PROMPT AND I RECEIVED MY PARTS IN ONE DAY AFTER THEY SHIPPED. SHIPPED ON MONDAY GOT THEM TUESDAY, thanks parts select for your promtness and speedy work for shipment.

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

Remove screws holding bottom cover. Cover then swings down allowing access to the receptacles. Receptacles have a single screw attaching them to the appliance with a simple electrical plug supplying power. Very easy.

Lower base of the microwave, about 6 screws,
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.

Must remove 5 screws in bottom of Microwave, which is hinged to the unit. Then simply remove the old lamp holders, and replace with replacements. Uses only a single screw for each lamp.

First I removed the screws that were underneath the microwave. Once I did that I disconnected the wires to the bulbs and removed the screws that were attached to the holder lamp. replaced the parts and reversed the process. It went really smooth.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).

I ran into the same problem everyone does when doing this job. I found and removed the top screw from the back of the door but could not see the bottom screw so was unsure how to remove old broken plastic piece from lower handle attachment point and reinstall new. I went back to the website and found the comments from others re how to do this and from there it was a 2 minute job. The only thing I would add is a caution: When removing the wide black plastic flange from inside the door (to access the bottom screw) pry it out carefully all around. If you pry open only at the handle end and start pulling away there is a risk of snapping the flange