JTP95BA2BB General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions
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Burnt Smell
Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!
Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
Parts Used:
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Eugene from Hilton Head, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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The oven does not keep adequate temperature.
Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.
Parts Used:
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Michael from GILLETTE, WY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
3 of 3 people
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False Bottoms in both ovens had aluminum pans melted on them and couldn't be cleaned
Use screwdriver to pull down tab on both hinges. Good hind on door and as you lower to full open door will come off. Pull old bottom, insert new bottom and put door back in slots. Close and then reopen to first position and push tabs back up to lock position
Parts Used:
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Raymond from MISSION VIEJO, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Oven Light Assembly damaged
I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.
Jose Figueroa
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.
Jose Figueroa
Parts Used:
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Jose from Frederick, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
5 of 10 people
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Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Parts Used:
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Ronald from PONCA CITY, OK
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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oven would not get hot
ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.
Parts Used:
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Paul from GATE CITY, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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broken light cover
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Francis from LAKE ELSINORE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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The threy was rusty
The thry was rusty I took the door out And i slide out the thry it's take five minutes I did it by myself now my oven Look like a new I'm so happy now I get the part quickly thank you
Parts Used:
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simi from KEY WEST, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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Not heat
-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order
Parts Used:
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Kip from POWELL, OH
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person
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Temp probe was defective
Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.
Parts Used:
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Eric from SOUTHBURY, CT
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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Oven meat probe broken
This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
Parts Used:
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robert from FAIRFIELD, OH
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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shortage in wiring cause the housing to burn out
Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response
Parts Used:
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fred from PALM COAST, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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temperature sensor went
Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks
Parts Used:
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Alex R from Randoff, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
1 person
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Timer, light and control pad worked. Turn table and heat did not work. Oven would not start up.
I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.
Parts Used:
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Pearlie from Beulaville, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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Needed to replace missing trim
Before you get started on this be sure that you already have the Bottom Cabinet Trim Assembly (item #PS952490) either ordered or installed. We were not aware that you had to order both trim items separately which meant we had to remove the oven door twice. Using the screwdriver to pull back the door tabs, we first removed the oven door. The trim installed very easy. We just lined up the holes, pushed in, and then down on the trim to lock it in place. When reinstalling the oven door, be sure that door latches are almost fully extended before reinserting them into their slots.
Parts Used:
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Jennifer from Castaic, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 of 2 people
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