JS900SK4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

Very simple. Remove one screw and carefully pull the sensor until you see the connection point. Remove the old one and snap the new one in and guide the wire back and reassemble the screw. Be sure to remove the oven door for easy access.

Disconnected breaker. Removed knobs, plastic retaining nuts mounted to each switch shaft. Removed four 1/4 inch hex head screws on front panel and two screws securing defective switch. Removed bad switch, and replaced with new part. Took photo of wiring before removing old part. Referred to photo to ensure correct wiring of new part. Reassembled front panel in reverse order of disassembly. Turned breaker to on, and tested new switch. All worked well.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Removed panel to gain access, removed wires from switch from burner that was not operating and attached them to switch for burner that was working. Burner worked, problem identified. Replaced bad switch with new switch. Problem solved.

I unfastened the three 1/4" rear screws, then the two support screws on top. I pulled the old element out,( plenty of slack wire luckily). disconnected it from the bayonet-type connections, then attached the new element. I secured the new element using the 1/4" screws. Bingo!

Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.

This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

Disconnect the power to the oven at the main breaker panel. Open the oven door to the first stop (not all the way open) and pull straight up to remove the oven door from the hinge. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/2" extension with 1/4" socket, remove the 1/4" sheetmetal screw holding the temperature probe at the center of the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler element at the ceiling of the oven. Pull the broiler element out from the back of the oven and there should be two electrical connectors at the back of the broiler element. Pull the electrical connectors off of element. Replace the element and re-install in reverse order.

followed video exactly

First found and threw appropriate breakers. Then removed knobs and faceplate retainer nuts and pulled off faceplate. Next removed four control panel retaining screws and lifted out and partially spun/inverted control panel. Couldn't fully remove due to wiring. Next removed four oven control screws and pulled back control module. Then just removed all wiring connections to old control module. Worked in reverse with new control module, turned breaker back on, and just had to set the clock. Back in business!

had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yum.

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.