JS900CKC General Electric Range - Instructions

The part arrived much sooner than I anticipated. The job was a little harder and took a little longer for me because I'm not good at repairing things. I usually have to call someone. However, I followed the step by step instructions that were provided both on the website and with the mailed item and had no problems. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The tools needed were very basic - all of which I had on hand. If I could do it - anyone can.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

just slipped it in

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.

nothing to it.

The age of the system resulted in the cook top being heavily stuck by food-stuff to the range surface. The result was a twisting of the top when breaking it free. It caused the cooktop (a $500+ part) to crack diagonally across the whole surface. Thus ended the quick do-it-yourself process, and out to buy a new range. Parts-select was very good about the return process of the un-used and un-opened burner element.

This was a wall mounted oven. Turned off breaker. Pulled panel off by removing 6 screws. Pulled connectors off old switch. Removed old switch. Just a friction fit. I used my jack knife to get it moving. Pushed in the new switch and connected wires. (just push on tabs) Put panel back together and turned on breaker. Done, easy.

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.

Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw

I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

The whole process was very easy! I just got the model number and bought a new rack and silverware holder on,one. There was no assembly needed so I just popped them in and replaced the old ones! Very easy to do!

Easy to install replacement parts using the screws provided.