JMP28BCW General Electric Range - Instructions

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out disconnected the two wires. THE PROBLEM IS THAT THERE IS HARDLY ANY WIRE TO WORK WITH. Otherwise I would have been finished in ten minutes.

I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.

I have replaced the stovetop burners, so thought the piece would slide into place, but I couldn't get it to catch. Had to call in a professional. He knew what he was doing and popped it into place in just a few minutes.

I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the burner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you

As with all of my orders from Part Select the part was as correct and arrived in a timely manner. The installation was easy. Remove two screws, unplug the old element from the wires, install wires on new element and reinstall the element. Restored power and everything worked fine.
Thanks,
Ken Fuelleman

Removed the old burner bowls, replacing them with the new ones.

unplug it and plug the new one in

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

1) Make sure unit switches are turned off. 2) Lift Calrod unit up and pull it from electrical receptacle. 3) Withdraw Calrod unit from old bowl. 4) Insert Calrod unit through large hole in new bowl. 5) Push Calrod electrical connectors into receptacle under range top. 6) Seat Calrod unit on bowl rim and insert the assembled Calrod unit and bowl into the hole in the range top.

it was real easy, I just watched my husband do it!

Lined up the prongs and slid it right in, took 30 seconds.

I simply removed drop in range and removed screws holding burn box and installed new box. Total time was approxmately !hr.