JM250DF4BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed two screws holding the housing in place and loosened two more on the back it order to free it. Switch was held i place with two screws, removed those. Transfered wires one by one on the new switch, which was identical OEM part, and replaced the screws. VERY simple.

I counldn't get the nut screw out. It wounldn't turn. Had to call a technican.

took the back panel off the range, took the 2 screws holding the switch in place, took the old switch out, marked the wires took the wires off and clipped them onto the new switch, put the new switch into the switch plate, replaced the screws put on the knob, put the panel back on the range. rolled the range back into it's place. turned the buner on to check if it worked. It did so we were done.

The new drip pans are great. I had purchased generic ones locally that were supposed to be universal. The problem was that they did not fit right and the burner coils did not sit flat. The new drip pans fit well and look great too.

The drip pans arrived and she switched them out with the old ones Easy!

Went online looked up model no and found Part No. and ordered it couple of days It came in mail Cut power to oven took knob off two screws back panel. wired new switch like the old one replced thwe switch and two screws and panel connected the power tried new switch it worked great.

Disconnected the appliacnce from the power source. Using screwdriver, removed the back panel and disconnected every wire that are connected to the switch. Pulled out the front nob and removed the switch. Then install the new switch by screwing it back in. Place all wires back and back panel. Connect and finish.

Just had to change out the drip bowls, easy. But, I wanted to comment on the quick delivery on the new bowls. I was impressed. Thank you.

Took the old pans out and put the new ones in. Simple as pie

used my hands to remove heating element, then remove drip bowls, then install new bowls, then install heating elements, done!!!!!

Followed the video supplied with the email on the parts order form. Biggest problem was pulling the range out from the wall, the repairs went without a hitch. The PartsSelect video was a great help showing the short cut to getting the new wires in by using the old wires as a pull wire.

I unpluged the stove pulled it out and took the 6 screws off the back to get to the switch. Around front take knob off and removed the two screws holding the swich in place and pulled it out the back. Pulled one wire at a time off of the old switch and replace on the new switch. Nothing to it had it done in just a few mins.

unplugged old block from both sides, ran new wire and plugged new wire to both ends and presto it worked, thanks for making it easy to fix. Thanks- Michael J Dumas

The burner light did not turn off, and the rear burner stayed hot. Unplugged unit and removed switch, which turned off the "burner lit" lamp. Thus I figured it was the switch that was causing the problem. Ordered the switch (I think around $18 and plugged it in. I think there were 4 screws to get the panel off, and then another 2 to get the switch off. When I plugged the unit back in (it had been unplugged while I waited for the part to ship) it beeped for a while. I had to turn the breaker on and off, and that solved the beeping problem.

I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.