Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Start by removing all screws 3 for each burner total of 15 t-15 bit is required then proceed to remove spark igniters 5 total slight pull next step would be to slide a screwdriver under top left and right side to remove top shelf. There you will have access to the parts you need to replace. When done just reverse installation instructions to complete
First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door. Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.
Could not get the model number of the cooktop stove. GE hides it very well. But, I found a replacement knob on your web that looked similar to my original. The photo of the replacement was very accurate in terms of showing its true size and configuration of the stem. This photo showed that the prospective replacement would match the original´s configuration and it did. Plus, it was the most inexpensive knob among the ones available in this or other sites. Great site.
Both items needed to replace broken or non existent ones
The burner cap was a no brainer. The grate feet should have been also, but many of them were undersized so we had to maneuver them in such a way that they didn't fall out of the grates.
Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.
Very easy to remove grates, burner cover and remove old burner head. Very simple process, but surprised that there was no efficient way to clean carbon deposits from my old burner. Burner video instructions on line insured I installed the new burner head correctly (actually, pretty hard to get wrong), and burner worked correctly immediately. Will likely replace other burners in time as the new one is so "silvery" colored compared to my other burners.
Ignitors kept clicking after flooding the stove, had to unplug any light manually
We had flooded the stove from boiling and after that the ignitors kept firing. We had to unplug the unit and light manually. Not sure exactly what the problem was, but I replaced the module and harness. Very easy. 1. Unscrew hex nuts, you can buy a hex nut set anywhere. 2. Pull out ignitors. 3. Cut or peel away caulking, if you did this. 4. Carefully lift lid off and set aside. 5. Unscrew module and scree back on. 6. replace harness exactly as you find it. 7. Make sure all colors go back into module as originally set. 8. place lid back on and replace the ignitor. Really very easy. Thank you!