JBS55DM4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

replaced Plastic Guides

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

It was just a matter of removing 5 screws that attached the broiler coil to oven top. Then carefully removing coil so as not to cause wires attached to fall into the back of the oven. Needed an extra pair of hands to hold coil while i guided the wires back thru the opening. All that was left to do was to secure the broiler coil to oven. All completed in less then 30 mins. A lot easier then originally thought. And, a lot cheaper then getting a repair person to do the job.

Remove old stained gasket and replaced with new. Only $57.00!

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

replaced handle, which was an exact fit and very easy.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

THE TWO 8' ROUND HEATING ELEMENT
1. LIFT THE LID OF THE STOVE FROM THE SIDE. SOMETIMES YOU MIGHT HAVE TO PRY IT A LOOSE. BE CAREFUL HOW YOU LIFT IT FROM THE BOTH SIDES WITH A FLAT SCREWDRIVER.
2. BECAREFUL HOW YOU PRY THE WIRING FROM THE OLD HEATING ELEMENT. THE WIRING IS FRAGILE. REMEMBER THE STEPS YOU TOOK TO TAKE A LOOSE THE OLD ONE. I HAD MY SON TO HELP ME BECAUSE I FIRST PULL THE CLAMP BACK WITH THE SCREWDRIVER AND HAD HIM TO HOLD IT TO OLD ONE STILL HOOK UP TO THE WIRING. I PLACE THE NEW ONE IN THE CLIP. THEN I TOOK ONE WIRING AT A TIME TO THE NEW ONE.

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

No parts dealer had a window for this particular oven door. But the associate at Part Select helped me find one that was the right dimensions. The internet videos I found describing installation of a GE oven glass window all described a glass held in place with brackets that don't exist on this model. The broken window was obviously held in place by adhesive. I found a video showing installation a Whirlpool oven window. The construction of the door seemed very similar to mine and the video explained how to attach the window inside the door with high temperature resistant double sided tape. I used Gizhome 3M Double sided Tap. I set door flat on a table unscrewed all the screw (two different size torque screws and 3 screws with nut tops) that held the outer cover to the door. Then I used a putty knife to scrap the old adhesive from the outer door frame. The top of the window is held in place by the metal panel behind the oven door handle. In order to slip the glass under the metal panel I slightly loosened two small screws that held the metal to the door frame. When the door handle is reinstalled it will hold the panel in place. I attached a strip of double sided tape across the entire area that I had scraped adhesive from. I added a short strip of double sided tap on both sides of the window frame, (I'm not certain that was a good idea). I carefully slipped the glass under the metal panel and lowered it to the frame while watching for exact fit. When I tightened the large door handle screws they tightened the metal snugly against the glass. I clamped the glass to the frame at the bottum and placed several bottles of water as weights along the sides of the frame and let the adhesive cure for 24 hours. The project took me several hours because of all the research I had to do. I was thankful for the parts associate's help finding a comparable window.

Easy