JBP46WIY3 General Electric Range - Instructions

Per the instructions included with part.

Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.

Upon removing the back panel of range with screwdriver to gain access to elelctric clock control. Unit was taken out with the use of a 1/4'' nutdriver. After following included instrucitons with replacement part. Part was an unpluged/pluged in operation. Works great. No service technician needed. Thanks gain.

First, I loosened the 2 bolts that held the old element in place and pulled it out from the oven back. There were 2 wires attached - black on the left, yellow on the right. The wires were easy to transfer from the old element to the new one. Then, it was just a matter of replacing the 2 bolts and now the oven works well.

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

The repair went quickly. First, I switched off the circuit breaker. Then, after lifting off the oven door to lighten the stove, I pulled it away from the wall for easy access to the part. I pulled off the oven control knob. WIth my socket wrench, I removed the 6 or so screws from the back cover of the stove. Now, I was able to see the clock timer and switch. Just a few phillips screws held it in place. I removed it, and struggled just a bit to remove the wires from their attachments to the old part. I wired the new part, one wire at a time, carefully comparing the function of the wires, not just the colors of the wires, using the clear and simple diagram that was included with the part. A sharp knife under the edge of the faceplate of the old part allowed me to pry it off and reuse it. Thus, I had my up and down arrows, the labels for clock and timer. It didn't shatter, as I feared. In fact, that faceplate was held on with only a small area of adhesive around the edge. I placed the faceplate from the old part over the front of the new part, alligned it in the opening and tightened it down with the screws I had removed. I replaced the oven knob. I switched on the breaker. The broiler worked, the timer worked. I felt powerful. I unexpectedly impressed my teenage children with my skills here, as I replaced the back cover of the stove, and set it back in it's place then replaced the oven door.
The replacement part was the same but with some differences in internal shape. This did not affect the fit. The wiring configuration was not the same. This added to my time as I had never done this before and needed to feel completely confident before proceding. The part came with a clear diagram of the wiring-- ground, line in, broiler, and oven. 4 attachments. The 3 ground wires are joined to one connector in my stove. A careful look was enough to assure me that though my colors were not the same, the basics were the same.
I feel this was a simple job. My stove and oven look and work like new.
And my husband thinks I'm amazing.

Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel

I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.

After several temporary fixes, one of the end caps finally broke completely, so the handle fell off. Ordered both caps, they arrived remarkably fast, and were installed easily.

There was nothing to it...I unplugged the Sufrace Elements from thier bases, removed the Drip Bowls, replaced the Drip Bowls and then plugged the Surface Elements back in to thier bases. The entire process could not have taken more than two minutes.

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

I was very impressed how quickly the package arrived. I would you your company again. I found you with a google search.