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The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black electrical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
1. Pull out range and unplug from socket. 2. Lift range lid. 3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily. (Note: Do not remove wires yet) 4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing 2 small tap screws 5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch. 6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old. 7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location. 8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one. 9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range. 10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch. 11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place. 12. Close lid, replace back panel 13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out. 14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
Turn the breaker off to the oven.Removed both wire racks,using a 1/4 nut driver unscrewed the old element.The flashlight was so I could see inside the oven.Having removed the two screws ,the old element came right out.With my needle nose pliers removed the wires one at a time,replacing them on the new element as they came off.Replaced the two screws holding the element ,replace my wire rack, turned the breaker back on.As for the price for the part ,it was less than a service call from a repairman,which would not have included the part.
Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks
First I made sure the power was off then I removed the back cover. I took the new switch in hand and took one wire at a time from the old switch and put them on the new switch. I removed the old switch and replaced it with the new one. Made test to be sure it worked. Replaced back cover, job finished.
First I turned off the circut breaker. Then removed the two wire racks. Then I removed the two 1/4" hex head screws holding the rear of the element in place. Pulled the element out far enough to remove the two wires. Discarded the old element. Installed the new element in the reverse order and turned the breaker back on. Took no more than 10 minutes. Ordering the part was easy. The diragrams with measurements of the part made it easy to insure that I was getting the right part. I'm sure I save myself at least a $65 plus service call. Not to mention a mark up on the part itself. I will use this website in the future if needed. Thanks
1. Removed the back panel. 2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time. 3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range. 4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel
When baking at temps > 400 the oven would beep with an error code F5 and shut off
I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.
Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.
Unpluged range. Removed back cover to access the infinite switches . removed old burner and drip pan. removed terminal block and retaining screw on cooktop. removed terminal block wiring from infinite switch taking care to mind were the wires came from. Install new terminal block and reattached to cooktop . installed new 8" burner and drip pan reinstalled back panel and plug in electrical to unit . tested burner . replaced stove after verifying burner worked
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Fastening screws loosened and handle end caps fractured
I dis asymbled the door to access the broken end cap screw holders(plastic) Take great caution with the door glass. It is held in place by thin stamped steel slots and when taking the door face apart, the glass is free to fall out. I placed four strips of adhesive tape on the glass to hold it in place while I replaced the handle end caps. Use an electric screwdriver to place the retainer screws. It speeds up the work, and allows your other hand to stabilize the door. Caution to not over torque the steel screws. They screw into plastic and can strip easy. Another point: These replacement End Caps did not come with any supporting hardware - screws. I was lucky in that I retained the original screws and they were in good condition and could be recycled. Very impressed with the service, would recommend to all. Frighteningly fast delivery. I was shocked to see the box on my porch in just a few days.
