Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Stove overheated with an F2 error
Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor. Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.
Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.
Remove two screws with nut driver that holds range top down. Turn off breaker or unplug before lifting top. Brace top with 2x4. Take picture with cell phone just in case. Orient replacement part with old burner. Remove one wire at a time and install on new burner in corresponding correcting terminal. be sure they are snug. Drop top install nuts . Test! Done! I am not an electrician!!!!!!!! Please do not publish !!!!
The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor. Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
Pulled the old one off (very easy), used popsickle stick to push first end in slot, aligned pins, pushed them in the holes and pushed other end in the slot.
Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!
The light socket cup could no longer hold the bracket that holds the light cover in place.
I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.
This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported. - works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
The repair went very well. The second repair comnt to remove the hinge screws was a good correction from the first description. I had to go to that parts diagram to realize that the the two metal sleaves were insulation spacers for the two top screws.
As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!
Got door off no problem used screw drive to release locks and lifted door off. Took 3 1//4 screws out the 2 3" long screws out to separate door half's took screws of hinges and then8 1/4 inch screws of sheet metal that covered window. Replaced window and reverse what I did taking apart. Still having trouble getting 1 hinge to connect to stove. Help would be appreciated.
