JB670SP5SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Turne off power to range..pulled oven out..Took top back panel off with nut driver. 4screws .. Took picture of control board....removed bad control board with Phillips driver...4 screws....installed New board...removed 1 connection at a time and replaced in New board..Turned power on to test new board...check picture to make sure connections are correct...turn off power...put back panel back on...put range back in place...turn power back o n...done ..approximate time 15 to 20 minutes..

First I removed two screws holding head in place and carefully lifted assembly up using flat screwdriver. I separated old igniter from feed wire with gentle pull. I reversed assembly after cleaning old gasket residue. torque screws back in place after cleaning with small ss wire brsh in dremel tool. Tighten in steps to firm light touch. I used new gashket and ignitor.

recieved part the next day. looked different but I followed instructions and the part worked perfect.

First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.

Unpack the new cooktop and set it upside down on a towel or blanket. Unplug the stove & pull it forward from between the counters. Open the oven door and remove the two screws securing the front edge of the cooktop. Lift & tilt the top up until you can unhook the back edge from the pins that hold it. Pull it forward until you can access the two wiring harnesses & the green ground wire. Take a picture of the harnesses & pinch the sides to unclip & remove them. Unscrew the green ground wire and set the screw aside. Flip the cooktop over and take another picture of how the burners are attached to the cooktop. Unscrew the green ground wire & use needle-nosed pliers to carefully remove the clips holding the burners. This is a little tricky - the flat top of the clip has a small tab inserted in a numbered hole in the top of the burner. After removing the clips holding each burner, carefully move the burners onto the underside of the new cooktop. Use the photo you took to reposition the burners on the new cooktop and reattach the clips using the same numbered holes as before. Reattach the green ground wire. Carefully flip the cooktop back over on top of the oven and use the photo you took to reattach the wiring harnesses and green ground wire. Tilt the cooktop as you hook/hang the back edge back onto the pins (this was also a little hard). Reinsert the two screws under the front edge to resecure the cooktop. Plug it back in to the outlet, and push it back between the cabinets.

Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.

Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.

Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.

took bulb out, but new one in lol

Found instructions on you tube. Easy as I,2, 3. Total of eight screws to remove, then unplug and replace the handle. First kill the power to your range before starting the repair.

I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!

Easy removal of switch and installation of new switch block.

Followed the directions!

Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.