JB650DT2WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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Oven slow to heat up
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
Parts Used:
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Joe from Harkers Is., NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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The middle of the element quit working.
Took the old burner out, tranferred the wires from old to new. Installed the new burner. Works fine.
Parts Used:
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Ruth Ann from New Columbia, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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I broke the glass on the door & needed to replace it.
It was easy, it just fit in. I was afraid the part might not be right or that I would need extra parts but everything was great. Part arrived in 3 days. thanks
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Barbara from Jacksonville, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Stove drawer rear guides broken
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Robert from Shakopee, MN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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broken handle on oven door
Used star screw driver to take door apart used socket set to unscrew handle screws. Installed new handle. Handle fit perfectly.
Parts Used:
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Lowell from Boulder, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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rear drawer supports broke
Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.
Parts Used:
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TERRY from RICHMOND, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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Dual Burner was not turning off or turning on by itself
Pulled the top back panel off, pulled off burner control knob, removed 2 screws which released switch, removed 5 wires from switch and connected them to new switch (pulled off faily easily). Reconnected the 2 screws to range and pushed knob back on. Replaced panel and reconnect the electric. Now works as it should.
Parts Used:
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Michael from North Miami Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Rust on Bottom of Oven Door
Self-clean the oven or use Easy-Off. Lay some towels or other padded ragging on the kitchen table. Open the oven door and lock the hinges. Pull the door out of the oven and lay it on the table with the oven handle hanging off the edge of the table. The inside of the oven door will be face up on the table. Use the 1/4 Nut Driver to remove three sheet metal screws from the bottom of the door. Use the T10 to remove two long screws from the top inside of the door. lift the door guts and set aside along with the 5 screws and two spacers you found under the top of the door. Use the nut driver to remove 4 screws holding the Door Bottom Channel Trim. The door handle and side channels will fall off (catch and set aside). you are left with one piece of glass with the old bottom channel trim. Gently tap the lip of the channel with a screwdriver in a towel to slip it off the glass. Gentle patience is a virtue here or the glass will break. Clean the glass with CeramaBryte or equal to get the burnt oven goop off. (While you're at it, do the same to the bottom of the door guts above.) Slip the new bottom channel on the glass as far as it will go (not very far in my case) and replace the door handle and side channels. You will see that the holes line up pretty well without having to jam the bottom channel onto the glass. Screw (4) the side channels to the bottom channel. Replace the Door Guts, being careful to line up the two spacers at the top of the door. Three screws in the bottom of the door, then the two Torx screws back in the top of the door. Put each screw in just finger tight and after they are all started, screw them home. Slip the reassembled door back in the oven frame, flip the locks up and Voila! Now that it's over, let me just say that if a camel is a horse designed by a committee, this thing must have been thought up by the US Congress!
Parts Used:
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Nat from Irvine, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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dead mice in insulation, chewed wire on latch switch
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Don from Flagstaff, AZ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
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Broken Glass Front
Loosen the upper screws on top of the inside of the door. Install the glass and replace the screws. A second person to hold things would be helpful.
Parts Used:
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Michael from Huron, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Bottom trim on oven door rusted - poor GE design
In order to replace the bottom trim (and side trims if needed) it is necessary to separate the oven door front panel and its outer glass from the inside door panel. It is best to remove the entire oven door and lay it down on a table in order to do this. (Refer to owner's manual for instructions on removing the door from the oven, but it basically lifts out easily when is is in the broil-open position). Remove the front panel of the oven door by unscrewing the two machine screws (these may be torx head screws on your appliance) on the top inside corners of the door that hold the door handle. (screw spacers on the inside likely will fall out when you remove the machine screws - don't be alarmed) Then remove the three screws at the bottom of door trim. The front panel can then be lifted away from the back panel. This will allow access to the screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim. Remove these and the bottom trim will slide off. Replace trim pieces and reassemble.
Parts Used:
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Wallace from Vestal, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .
Parts Used:
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brendan from lebanon, NH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Wall oven: light flickered or did not work in a loose poreclain socket.
Shut off power at the panel to the electric oven. Removed 2 phillips screws holding bulb unit in place in the top of teh oven chamber. One wire was so frayed it came out of the push on connector. Stripped off insulation and reinstalled onto the connector, using pliers to snug the wires down. Installed the new porcelain socket from Parts Select, replaced the unit in the top of the oven unit. Installed a new bulb, then snapped the new glass housing into place with the existing retaining wire clip. Presto: works like it's brand new. Thanks to Parts Select for the right parts, and for such quick delivery. I will use them again!
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Robert from Owings Mills, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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