JB625DKBWW General Electric Range - Instructions

Went online looked up model no and found Part No. and ordered it couple of days It came in mail Cut power to oven took knob off two screws back panel. wired new switch like the old one replced thwe switch and two screws and panel connected the power tried new switch it worked great.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

In order to replace the bottom trim (and side trims if needed) it is necessary to separate the oven door front panel and its outer glass from the inside door panel. It is best to remove the entire oven door and lay it down on a table in order to do this. (Refer to owner's manual for instructions on removing the door from the oven, but it basically lifts out easily when is is in the broil-open position). Remove the front panel of the oven door by unscrewing the two machine screws (these may be torx head screws on your appliance) on the top inside corners of the door that hold the door handle. (screw spacers on the inside likely will fall out when you remove the machine screws - don't be alarmed) Then remove the three screws at the bottom of door trim. The front panel can then be lifted away from the back panel. This will allow access to the screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim. Remove these and the bottom trim will slide off. Replace trim pieces and reassemble.

This repair is really easy unless the trim piece has rusted so badly that it's attached itself to the front door glass. It took a long time and some WD-40 to pry the trim off w/o breaking the glass. REPAIR: Remove the door and lay it on a flat surface. Unscrew the 3 bottom screws w/ small pliers, then unscrew the top two inside door screws w/ a small metric allen wrench. Remove the door trim to get to the last four side trim screws. Once the old trim is out just clean up any residue/rust remaining on the glass, install the new trim and reverse the steps to put the door back together. If the old trim comes off easily it should only take @ 20-30 minutes.

Self-clean the oven or use Easy-Off. Lay some towels or other padded ragging on the kitchen table. Open the oven door and lock the hinges. Pull the door out of the oven and lay it on the table with the oven handle hanging off the edge of the table. The inside of the oven door will be face up on the table. Use the 1/4 Nut Driver to remove three sheet metal screws from the bottom of the door. Use the T10 to remove two long screws from the top inside of the door. lift the door guts and set aside along with the 5 screws and two spacers you found under the top of the door. Use the nut driver to remove 4 screws holding the Door Bottom Channel Trim. The door handle and side channels will fall off (catch and set aside). you are left with one piece of glass with the old bottom channel trim. Gently tap the lip of the channel with a screwdriver in a towel to slip it off the glass. Gentle patience is a virtue here or the glass will break. Clean the glass with CeramaBryte or equal to get the burnt oven goop off. (While you're at it, do the same to the bottom of the door guts above.) Slip the new bottom channel on the glass as far as it will go (not very far in my case) and replace the door handle and side channels. You will see that the holes line up pretty well without having to jam the bottom channel onto the glass. Screw (4) the side channels to the bottom channel. Replace the Door Guts, being careful to line up the two spacers at the top of the door. Three screws in the bottom of the door, then the two Torx screws back in the top of the door. Put each screw in just finger tight and after they are all started, screw them home. Slip the reassembled door back in the oven frame, flip the locks up and Voila! Now that it's over, let me just say that if a camel is a horse designed by a committee, this thing must have been thought up by the US Congress!

Disconnected the power. Removed hex head screws from top and lower rear panel. I think there were 8 all together. Pull the knob of the burner control, removed two screws that held the switch in place. Moved the wires one at a time to the new switch, re-assembled. Burner worked properly. Very easy to find the right part from this web-site, and the instructions from others like this were helpful. Easy fix!

Checked each burner switch by disconnecting the light indicator wire. Located the switch, replaced the switch and the indicator light operated as it should.

Installed new guides with a nut driver without any problems.

Easy to install replacement parts using the screws provided.

Followed the example picture on the part bag. Anyone could do this, incredibly easy. Took about 4 minutes to install both sides.

Identified the switch that went bad. Order a new one and replaced it. The part came in a timely fashion and I am pleased with the result.

remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in

Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.