JB620DR4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

THE TWO 8' ROUND HEATING ELEMENT
1. LIFT THE LID OF THE STOVE FROM THE SIDE. SOMETIMES YOU MIGHT HAVE TO PRY IT A LOOSE. BE CAREFUL HOW YOU LIFT IT FROM THE BOTH SIDES WITH A FLAT SCREWDRIVER.
2. BECAREFUL HOW YOU PRY THE WIRING FROM THE OLD HEATING ELEMENT. THE WIRING IS FRAGILE. REMEMBER THE STEPS YOU TOOK TO TAKE A LOOSE THE OLD ONE. I HAD MY SON TO HELP ME BECAUSE I FIRST PULL THE CLAMP BACK WITH THE SCREWDRIVER AND HAD HIM TO HOLD IT TO OLD ONE STILL HOOK UP TO THE WIRING. I PLACE THE NEW ONE IN THE CLIP. THEN I TOOK ONE WIRING AT A TIME TO THE NEW ONE.

I took the oven door off. Laid it down on a blanket on the floor. I pulled up on end going into the door, then went around with fingers to feel where the clip were and grab the clip with my fingers and gently pulled up. Then grabbed the new gasket, found the center clip that goes at top of door and started pushing the clips in. The last was feeding the ends back into the slot in the door.

Easy

Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.

Using a set of nut drivers, I unscrewed the element from the back of the stove, I unscrewed the thermometer, and unscrewed the brackets holding the element to the top of the oven compartment.

After the element was free, I pulled it out of the back of the oven, exposing the wiring. Using pliers, I disconnected the two wires, retrieved the new element, and re-connected the wires to the new element.

I reconnected the thermometer, pushed the element back into the oven, reattached it to the back of the oven and the brackets to the top of the oven compartment.

Took top of stove off, disconnected the heating element, re-installed the new element and now my stove works fine.

First, the part was an EXACT fit - what a relief. Thanks PartSelect! Teh oven door had to be taken apart a bit, but once I found the right nut wrench, it went smoothly. Having another set of hands really helped.

popped the new one on!

removed 2 screws that hold the cover in place, inserted the new panel at the bottom, pushed top in place and reapplied the 2 screws.

the part was an exact fit. the instalation of the product was very easy. I just removed the 4 hex bolts and 2 star head bolts and reattached. Instalation took about 10 minutes.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!