J439C3WH General Electric Range - Instructions

I had an appliance guy replace a burner(Calrod unit)on my 47 year-old GE range, but he didn't tell me that the original trim ring wouldn't fit. I decided to look up on PartSelect to see if I could get one to fit the new burner, and I did! Fits perfectly......no tools needed.

Broiler element failed catastrophically (with light flashes) while in use (1986 GE self-clean oven/four burner stovetop). Part number embossed on element plate - very difficult to see - took digital photo while still in oven and magnified. Easy to search for part. Good price, prompt delivery. Removal of old and install new awkward because of access angle and my decreasing nimbleness, as well as oven control thermocouple and support bracket in way. But no technical difficulties. Hex head metal screws holding in element; Notched phillips metal screws holding bracing bracket (easier to put element in by removing one side of bracket). Screws difficult to remove as in much used oven 26 years, and thermocouple partially blocking socket ratchet wrench. Would have been easier with 1/4" short extension. Before detaching element, I used twist ties around the leads tied to a large plastic clip so as not to lose them into oven back. PartSelect part was made by GE, not secondary source. Perfect replacement for this old part - still available.

I purchased a set of drip pans at the store only to find out that they were not for GE Ranges. I got on line and inquired and your representative was very helpful. The repair was easy. After cleaning the stove I removed the old drip pans and installed them one by one. No problem!

Some times it's not the element at all, as in this case. After rmoving the element I found the wires broke. Fortunatly I had some high temp wire left over from a earlier oven repair. I used butt splices and heat shrink tubing to repair the wires. Then I crimped on a couple of eyelets and fastened things dow.n I received a big kiss form the wife for getting the broiler fixed so fast. Maybe a little extra work, but the rewards were worth it.

First turn off breakers. Undo all screws and remove burner. Easy to see how to replace old part with new. Self explanatory if you follow what you have taken apart.

The repair was very eash. The replacement element fit perfectly and only involved removing two screws, pulling the old element out far enought from the bak of the oven to disconnect the wires held by two screws . Disconnecting the two wires and installing the new element. This is a 25 year old appliance and is back to working like new. One note, be sure to shut the power off to the range because one of the wires connected to the element remains HOT! even if the oven is not on.

Put bowl in and then slid rings around. Just like cleaning procedure. Easy. Thanks for your service.

First I turned the power to the stove off at the breaker box. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place against the back wall of the oven. I gently pulled the element forward. I wound a couple lengths of spare colored wire around the two electrical wires before disconnecting the retainer screws at their connection points. This insured that the electric wires would not fall back inside and behind the firewall. I then disconnected the screws holding the electrical wires to the broiler element. I removed the element from the oven and discarded it. I then connected the screws through wires and the connecting points of the new element. I removed the spare wires hold the electrical wires. I positioned the broiler element in place and screwed in the retainer screws securing it in place. I turned the breaker switch to the "on" position and tested the new broiler element. It tested fine. Job done in 15 to 20 minutes. An able bodied person could do it in less than 10 I'm sure.

Replaced 30 year old stovetop cooking element with no problems. Stovetop works great now.

I tried first to replace them, with a set I bought at a local hardware store. But they were too small. So I went on the internet, and found Part Select, and thanks to a very helpful guy, who made the extra effort to find the exact drip bowls, I now have a nice, shiny stove-top again. Installing them took two minutes... tilt the burners up, and slide them in. No problem.

From inside the oven after turning off the breaker I removed all of the mounting screws with a nutdriver, I removed the wire screws after taping all of the wires together with a small piece of tape to prevent them from falling back into the opening. I installed the wires with the original screws as the provided screws would not fit the holes, tightened them, removed the tape and placed the element back into the opening. I then tightened the hanging brackets, after getting them to align and then tightened the rear mounting bracket. It did help to adjust the baking rack down and leave the baking rack in place to have a place to rest my arms. The install then became a piece of cake!

Unscrew 4 easy nuts and 1 most difficult nut, gently pull both long and short wires, at this point assure the wife that you did turn off the power.You may wish to attach a cord to short wire as it wants to vanish into the rear bowels of the oven On instruction of the wife clean the oven. Reverse dismantling procedure. Switch oven on. Bask in wives praise.

Even though my sons offered to do the repair, I opted to hire an appliance technician to do it and it took him at least 45 mins. with his experience and tools. apparently the inside wall wires were shorter and more difficult to access and grip and I'm glad I did. It should last another 20 years and I'll be dead!

Removed old element, checked continuity and element was bad, Fit new element and everything was good. No problem except my arms were not long enough!! Repairs took about 15 minutes.

Replaced the old with the new following directions (mostly).