IPT104301 Inglis Refrigerator - Instructions

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

1. Turn thermostat down to ensure cooling cycle turns on. Open freezer compartment and listen for air flow/fan. If no air flow or fan, but compressor seems to be working, then proceed to next steps. 2. Turn thermostat up to shut off refrigerator cooling cycle. 3. Open freezer and remove wire shelf (if installed). 4. Using nutdriver or socket set, remove screws securing metal panel on the back wall of the freezer interior. 5. Pull metal panel out to expose evaporator fan and evaporator coil. 6. Ensuring area around fan is clear, turn thermostat down to again start cooling cycle and check if fan operates - if not, then fan needs to be replaced. 7. Turn off refrigerator and unplug from electrical outlet. 8. Order replacement fan (unless you happen to keep one in stock). 9. Remove two screws securing fan and fan bracket assembly to back wall of freezer, note wire connections to fan (red, white and green), disconnect wires and remove fan assembly. 10. Gently pull off fan blade, it is a compression fitting. 11. Remove two screws holding back and front fan brackets together and remove fan motor. 12. Remove rubber gasket from front and back of old motor and insert then on the new replacement fan motor (these rubber gaskets align to openings in the fan brackets, thereby holding the motor in place when installed back into the brackets). 13. Reinstall fan brackets onto new motor matching how the old motor was assembled. 14. Press the fan blade onto the new motor shaft. 15. Reinstall fan motor assembly onto back wall of freezer. 16. Reconnect wires to new motor as they were previously connected to old motor. 17. Reinstall back wall metal panel that covers the fan motor assembly and evaporator coil. 18. Reinstall wire shelf (if applicable). 19. Plug refrigerator in and adjust thermostat to normal setting to initiate cooling cycle. 20. Open freezer and listen for fan and airflow, if you hear it operating correctly, then close freezer and refrigerator and confirm temperatures after refrigerator has cycled through one full cooling cycle - adjust thermostat as necessary. 21. Tell your spouse or significant other that for less than fifty dollars you just saved the price of replacing the refrigerator.

The repair was very easy, unplug ref. open freezer door, and remove base plate, then remove screws on back plate. I had to tilt top of back plate to remove from freezer. This gives you access to the evap. fan Pull of the three wires, and remove screws from fan bracket, which bolts to the back of ref. Remove fan motor from bracket (2) screws, remove motor, and put replacement motor on bracket, pull fan blade off old unit and push on new motor shaft. Reverse the installation, and you are done. Pretty easy.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Used angle screwdriver to tighten.

much like yout video. However I got the mounting bracket upside down and had to do the job twice. When finished it worked perfectly. Great! However in Missouri outside temperature was over 100 and refrig was in shed. My beer got warm. Thank you.

Open refigerator took retaining plate off. Removed screws as instructed. Found timer. Replaced timer. Put parts back together.

Looked at your You Tube video and followed the instruction

I followed the instructions in the video on the PartSelect website. The only problem I ran into was that I couldn't switch the grounding tab connector from the original side of the motor to the other. I had to add more wire so that I could reach it in its new location.

1. I removed the plastic back cover panel in the freezer. 2. Took flash photos with my phone of the motor and wire configuration. 3. Removed noisy Evaporator fan bracket from freezer. 4. Removed Fan Blade from old Motor. 5. Removed old Motor from Bracket. 6. Installed New Motor into the bracket. 7. Installed the fan blade onto motor spindle. 8. Installed the bracket onto the back wall of freezer. 9. Noticed that the tab for the ground wire was inaccessible. 10. Cursed like Linda Blair in the Exorcist for about 5 minutes. 11. Repeated steps 3 - 5... 12. Unscrewed the ground tab and placed it on the opposite side and screwed it back in. 13. Repeated steps 6 & 7.... 14. Tried to install the bracket and motor back onto the freezer but the bracket screw holes weren't lining up. When I removed the motor to flip the ground tab over, I reinstalled the motor onto the bracket upside down. 15. Tear some hair out of my head. 16. Repeated steps 4 & 5 and flipped bracket over. 17. Repeated steps 6 - 8... 18. Placed wires onto tabs. 19. Ground wire would not stay securely onto the tab. 20. Slightly opened up metal fastener of ground wire with needle nose pliers and stuck it onto the tab. 21. Still not on there super tight. I gave up wrestling with it and just prayed it will stay on there anyway. 23. Turned on freezer to check if it works. 24. Reinstalled plastic back plate. 25. Put melted food back into freezer.

I watched the repair video. My son followed my instructions. He removed the ice-maker. The back panel was frozen, so we chipped and waited for the ice to thaw. There are three wires to remove from the old fan. My son used his cell phone to take a picture of the correct wiring. He used needle nose pliers to get the motor off the bracket. I used hot water to thaw the ice, so we could get the back panel to fit properly. If we weren't waiting for the ice to melt, we could have finished in about a half-hour. I'm 86 years old, and have carpel tunnel. My son is 63. Together, we make a good team.

I vacuumed the back and underneath, hoping it will solve the problem, but after about 2 weeks of hoping I succumbed.... finding the proper wrench was the most time consuming. After removing the screws, the face plate removal was the most challenging. You have to pry the top part carefully away (we used a knife), after it just drops down. Used a flat screw driver to loosen the wire harness, after that the rest was less than child's play. We are still in the testing mode, but so far so good. Freezer freezes, ice maker drops the ice cubes (not melting), fridge is humming. Wish us good luck.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.