IP70000 Inglis Dryer - Instructions

Followed video on Parts Select site for comparable model showing roller and drive belt replacement.

The triangle plastic retaining clips were the most difficult part , to put
on and take off. They required careful , firm stretching with needle nose pliers.

Came to Parts Select. Looked for door switch. Read what other people did. Part came in a few days took a few minutes to take old switch out (had to pry the plastic connection apart with little thin screwdriver). Everything was easy

Used the YouTube video sent by this site

Lint screen on my 30-year dryer was torn. Ordered the new screen here with just the part number, fits well. Very helpful website.

I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might contact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.

Found one of the two drum support rollers was badly worn. Found Partselect.com, found my parts in less then 2 mins. Figured that I was in there so I should just replace the belt so I got one of those also. Parts arrived in 3 days dryer as good as new in 20 mins.

1. Shut off gas and disconnected dryer.
2. Opened cabinet. Easy sheet metal screws and fairly obvious how everything goes together. NB: You'll need a block (or a helper to hold things while you run to look for one) to hold the drum while removing the front.
3. The motor is connected with a single harness, so wiring is a snap.
4. Removing the blower wheel from the back was hard. I braced the motor shaft and turned with all the leverage I could muster, but it was stuck. Plan B: Recip saw to cut the shaft. Motor comes out one side and the fan comes out the other.
5. The fan, of course, was unusable because there was still a piece of motor shaft stuck in the thread. This is why I had to spring for a new wheel.
6. Put everything back together and receive wife's adoring praise...

Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.

First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.

First I raised the top of the dryer(after unplugging the power cord) disconnected two wires to the front door switch and then removed two screws using a nutdriver. The front cover lifts up and while supporting the drum set the cover aside. Slide the belt off the drum and remove it. I then removed the two support roller tri rings and replaced the rollers and tri rings and reassymbled the dryer.
It was a very simple repair.

Thanks Mike

first we printed out directions from a couple of online repair sites that had pictures.
We followed the directions to remove the front of the dryer and removed the belt off the drier and then took out the drum. We had a hard time trying to keep the rear seal on so used CLOTHES PINS to put on the seal, then we added the adhesive replacing the clothes pins until the whole seal glued. Since the drum was already out, we put it in the sun to really dry the glue.
Next we attacked the drum support rollers. We removed the back of the dryer and used a 9/16" socket with an extention to remove the back nuts.
We took out the shaft, used sandpaper on it and then replaced the triangle clips and the support rollers.
Then put the back on again, then the front, making
sure the drum fit on the front. You have to then figure out the belt, with the rubber side down, and then work with the tensioner, which took my poor husband a while. Then lowered the top, put the clips back on and the bottom, making sure we turned the drum. It was a success after about 3 hours. You can do it a lot easier with pictures.

Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!

I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

Used this resource and others' advice -thank you . Make sure to disconnect power first. I had replaced the rollers and tensioner a week earlier due to squeaking, but mine was the rare one where squeaking meant motor failure, so I had to place another parts order. The dryer was 19 years old, and my blower wheel did not simply 'unscrew with reverse threads'. During removal the blower wheel's plastic deformed, so had to do like someone else did and cut the rear shaft with a reciprocating saw. Just be careful not to damage the bulkhead's built-in bracket that anchors the rear of the motor. I think it was a 13/16" wrench that fit the blower wheel and I forget the size for the pulley nut on the front of the motor, but I suggest a deep socket since it held well. My best advice when dealing with a motor replacement is to ensure the blower wheel wheel will separate successfully from the motor before placing your parts order should it be a stubborn removal. Good luck.