INS22F8 Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new

This is a problem in the defrost cycle. It is one of three items the heater, timer or thermostat.. I removed the screws from the back side of the freezer and romoved the sheet metal from the back which exposes all the elements. Below the evaporaro coils are two small plates which cover the heating elements ( two glass tubes conected to insulated wire), You may be able to look at it and tell if they are bad. Mine was burnt and obviously gone. If you disconnect from conectors you can check for conitinuity to tell if bad. Simply remove the four screws holding these in place and install new one the same way. quite easy. I did check the thermostat for continuity and relaced it also. It simply plugs into a clip on the back wall and two power connectors. If checking themostat for continuity make sure it is cold otherwise it will be open and you won't get a good read. The timer for this model is under \neather behind the grill on the bottom. simply turn the dial and if the motor stops it is probbably good. It runs 8 hr. and then will shut off for defrost heater to come on. Do this before closing up to tell that your new heater is working. It will get red quickly. Saved a lot of money on this one

The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.

I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.

I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repair in 10 minutes.

I pulled the fridge away from the wall.

I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.

I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.

I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.

Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.

I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.

I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.

My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.

rmv panel (5min) rmv fan/motor 3 screws (10 m) cut wire 2in from motor, re route remainder of wire to front so can strip for wire nuts. ( 10m) attach old fan to new motor, place in old opening ,3 screws, a little fussy to align, ( 15m ) route and strip wire from new motor , zip ties work well, wire nuts , plug in fridge vola, no noise, close up, reverse panel. ( 20m). i also took time to clean grilles with small vac and damp rag, ( looks and sounds like new) bob Wi.

Turned off water supply and unplugged appliance. Removed lower panel on back of refrigerator with 1/4 " nutdriver. Then removed supply line, and line to icemaker. removed valve from back panel and replaced with new valve. wrapped water connections with teflon tape, turned on supply line, checked for leaks, everything o.k..Replaced back panel and in 45 minutes had first drop of ice. Job requires moderate mechanical ability and minimum tools. Saved a PANT load of money by doing it myself. VERY satisfied with Partselect.com

This repair involved basically completely disassembling the washer. I found a reasonably usable set of step-by-step directions that got me most of the way through the process. Where there were gaps or steps missing, I was able to improvise.

The problem with my washer was that the bearings for the inner tub were shot. The only way to repair this problem is by replacing the rear outer tub. This is because the bearings and the water seal are pressed in place on the rear outer tub assembly and cannot be removed and replaced separately. It makes for a very expensive part.

Here are the steps I found elsewhere on the PartSelect forum:

*******************************
Remove the washer top.

Disconnect the touch pad/led assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the central control unit and release if from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top.

Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer and pulling it completely out to the washer.

Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening.

Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer and remove the console. Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.

Removing the washer front panel will require that the door switch be removed and the boot be separated completely from the front panel opening.

Access to the door switch requires that the water seal boot be removed from the front of the washer.

Use a flat bladed screwdriver at the location of the retainer spring and pull the retainer forward and then off the perimeter of the boot.

Ease the edge of the boot off of the lip of the washer front.

The door switch is secured to the washer front panel with three screws. Once these screws are removed, the door switch will remain in place until it is lifted slightly and pulled back from the washer front panel.

Remove the two screws securing the bottom of the front panel to the washer, and the two screws securing the top of the front panel to the washer.

Remove th detergent dispenser assembly.

Separate the water inlet and window washer tube from the boot.

Pull the water inlet tube from the outlet connector of the detergent dispenser.

When reinstalling the water inlet tube, wet the water inlet gasket on the detergent dispenser with water only. Do Not Use any other lubricant.

Remove the screw securing the front of the detergent dispenser assemble to the top front frame.

Disconnect the vent tube from the detergent dispenser assembly.

Remove the screw securing the detergent dispenser assembly to the top left frame member.

Slide the assembly back sightly and lift the assembly out.

To remove the detergent dispenser motor assembly, disconnect the cam follower spring and lift the cam follower from the diverter locate the diverter cam clockwise to access the motor mounting screws.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the heating element.

There are three concrete weights attached to the tub assembly. All three must be removed for safe removal of the tub assembly.

Access to the weight on the top front of the tub requires removing the six screws securing the top front frame member from the washer and removing the frame member.

Access to the weight on the top back of the tub requires removing the two screws securing the upper transport brace to the washer and removing the brace.

Each weight is secured to the tub by three bolts.

Remove the three bolts and lift the weight from the tub.

Remove the flat nuts from the tub for safekeeping.

At the back of the tub assembly, remove the belt.

To remove the pulley from the basket, Place the handle of a crescent wrench through the pulley and into the steel bearing hub to keep the pulley from turning.

Use a socket wrench to remove the nut securing the pulley to the basket.

Disconnect the ground wire from the bearing hub.

Remove the screw securing the left end of the pressure tube connector tot

First I took the top, front, and back off of the washer. There were about a gazillion wires and tubes so I went slow and took pictures. I had to get the old tub out so that I could replace its back half. The new outer tub contained the replacement bearing. Taking the tub out took about two hours because I went slow so that I could document the process. Once the tub was out, I split the tub in half and found a real mess of a bearing. I couldn't get the old bearing race off of the shaft, so I went to the store to get some sand paper. With sand paper I was able to smooth the shaft down enough to get the old race off. The inner tub and the outer rear tub went together pretty easy with a couple swats with a hammer. Putting the clips back on was a trick. My oldest son figured it out. This was actually a family event. I am the father of ten children so you can imagine how important a washing machine is. After another couple of hours, we had all of the wires attached and the hoses hooked up. There is a metal band that holds the plastic shroud in the front to the outer tub. It took my daughter-in-laws long piano fingers to get that put on right. When we had it working finally, the bottom drain hose was leaking. The little clamp that came with the machine wasn't doing its job. Then the metal band came back off. Well, I went back to the store and bought a 10 inch metal band clamp for the bottom hose. That did the trick. I tightened the big band real tight and everything is wonderful. My wife is happy again! No more trips to wash clothes! I saved some money and some time and it wasn't that bad.

My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!

Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.

Defrosted, removed old heaters and thermostat and installed new heaters and thermostat. Not a hard job at all.

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

Removed two screws holding valve, removed two 1/4" water lines. disconnected wire clip from old valve.
Installed new valve, connecting water and electrical with ease.
Absolutely Simple!

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

unplug refrigerator. remove contents from freezer. remove shelves, trays, icebucket, light cover & bulb. defrost back panel w/hair dryer. remove screws from: ice dispenser motor housing, back cover. remove back cover. defrost evaporator w/hair dryer. remove heater leads from connector on feedthru. remove heater mounting screws. pull leads down thru evaporator while removing heaters. install new heaters on mounting plates. feed leads up thru evaporator. connect to feedthru. install everything else.

part was exact fit. same resistance as on schematic, leads were long enough. no problems encountered.