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Models > HVM1540LP2CS > Instructions

HVM1540LP2CS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

All Instructions for the HVM1540LP2CS
106 - 120 of 179
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light bulb fused it self to socket
replace socket
Parts Used:
Light Socket - 250V 75W
  • CHRIS from SPRING, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Insulator around light socket Broke.
Took out five screws on microwave bottom, removed the two screws in the socket and unplugged the light socket. Plug in new socket, screw in place with 2 screws. Lock in microwave bottom,and screw in 5 screws. Replace bulbs. Be sure and either unplug microwave or switch off at electric service box, before starting. Of course, hubby did all the work, but I supervised.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W 130V Light Socket - 250V 75W
  • Karen from Springfield, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Lights broke and stuck in socket
As suggested, I placed a towel over the stove. Only had 3 main screws to remove from bottom of microwave. Dropped the bottom and changed the sockets and light bulbs. After replacing the bottom tray, I put the new glass light lens in. The clips on glass holder bent back like a photo frame-really easy. Turned on the lights and was done.
Parts Used:
Glass Light Lens Light Bulb - 40W 130V Light Socket - 250V 75W
  • Mary J from Bayside, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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lights under microwave (that we use as a kitchen night light went out.
undid plate exposing bulbs. Bulbs were blown to the extent that I could not see the size or wattage. Went to website, got the data ... including how to find the model and serial number plate, entered the info, looked at the exploded drawing, ordered 2 new bulbs and 3 days later they showed up at our door FedEX.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W 130V
  • JOHN from RIVERSIDE, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Microwave light bulb glass broke in socket and could not be removed from socket.
Simply unscrew the bottom panel of the microwave device (it swings downward when opening - there are hinges on the back to protect it from falling down). Remove the old light socket (which is modular and is screwed in place)from the connectors and then replace it with the new light socket. That's it
Parts Used:
Light Socket - 250V 75W
  • Juan from Los Angeles, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Unit would not come on.
removed access panal, found soft switch as discribed on your web site. removed and replaced.
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Phillip from Umatilla, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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would not turn on - plug in and would shut off right away
thank you very much.
Parts Used:
Monitor Door Switch Secondary Door Switch
  • Vita from Flagstaff, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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One of the lenses was broken and a light bulb was burned out.
Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver and removed the screw that retains the lens frame around the broken lens. I also did the same to the opposite side (whose lens was fine but the bulb had been burned out for some time). With my fingers I pryed up the frame clips that secure the lens in place, removed the pieces of the broken lens, and replace the lens with one of the new lenses I had ordered. Although the bulb on this side was still burning, I replaced it with one of the two I ordered anyway. When I removed the bulb that was burned out, the glass separated from the bulb's base. However, I simply put on a set of tight fitting leather gloves and used my ring finger to apply pressure inside the base and it soon began to twist and then came out. This takes a little manual dexterity, but is very doable. If it were too tight, you could take a large "easy-out" tool (like the one to fit a 3/8" - 1/2" hole) and it would remove the broken base in short order. I had also ordered a second lens, but the lens on the burned side was simply dirty, so I cleaned it, put it back in place and saved the new one for a rainy day. By the way, BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THE LIGHTS ARE SWITCHED TO THE "OFF" POSITION BEFORE DOING ANY OF THE ABOVE. Also take care to clean the glass on the bulbs with denatured alcohol and handle them with clean cloth gloves or a tissue so as not to allow any oils to be on the surface when they are switched on. Body oil will immediately create a hot spot which will shorten the life of the bulb by at least 50% if not more.
Parts Used:
Glass Light Lens Light Bulb - 40W 130V
  • Michael from Grand Prairie, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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light bulb below the over burned out
Getting the old bulb out of the socket was not an easy job as the factory seals the base of the bulb to the socket and for what reason I do not know. The seal has to be broken away to remove the bulb. I broke the seal with a knife and then proceeded to unscrew the bulb. The bulb at that point shattered in my hand and I was left with just the base of the bulb stuck in the socket. it took much effort to be able to work loose the base with a needle nose pliers and much sweat. The installation however went very smooth and Part Select did a fine job of sending me the right part in a very short period of time. They are a great source for any appliance part needed.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W 130V
  • Raymond from Walnut Creek, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Bulb separated from base, leaving base in socket. Unable to remove base without damaging socket.
Removed 5 phillip screws from bottom plate of microwave oven to lower the plate and gain access to the socket. Then, removed screw(s) attaching socket to the oven. Installed socket, and secured the bottom plate of the oven with screws removed previously.
Parts Used:
Light Socket - 250V 75W
  • Danny from Zebulon, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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change microwave fan discharge from front to top
damper plate was a snap-in part. rotated fan discharge to top of microwave. installed ducting to discharge food odors outside.
Parts Used:
Hood Damper Assembly
  • James from Newbern, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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fan came on when door was opened.
First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W 130V Monitor Door Switch
  • Hugh from Albertville, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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the light over the stove top went out
I tried to replace a light bulb over the cook stove without turning off the power supply. The light socket had deteriorated and the bulb base shorted out on the microwave frame. I ordered new sockets and bulbs. Replacing them was s simple matter with the power off. However, there was still no lights working with the power on. I pulled to cover off on top of the microwave (two screws) and checked the fuse. Continuity test showed it to be ok. Next I pulled the cover off the control panel and pulled out the mother board. On the back side I noticed two burnt pins. I applied solder with a solder gun to replace the burnt off solder. I put it all back together and it works fine.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W 130V Light Socket - 250V 75W
  • charles from st augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Bulb Light Replacement
I thought I could just unscrew the bulbs in the SpacemakerXL Microwave Oven. The bulbs melted into the bulb socket so every attempt to unscrew the bulb with pliers just broke the socket. So I took out the few screws holding up the bottom panel(with the bulbs and filters). I unplugged the electrical connection and took out the sockets but I used PAM Cooking oil on the electrical connections plugging into the sockets to avoid pulling the wire holders from the connection. Replacing both bulbs and the sockets at the same time makes sense since the heat from the stove melts the bulbs in the socket.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W 130V Light Socket - 250V 75W
  • James from Walpole, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Microwave would not turn on
Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Prashant from Dardenne Prairie, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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All Instructions for the HVM1540LP2CS
106 - 120 of 179