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refrigerator came with can/holder in door
i did not need the can holder in door, we do not buy can drinks. i would rather have the full shelf space, so i replaaced the can holder with a full shelf
The evap motor failed (no air movement inside of refrierater
Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.
My original gaskets for the fridge and freezer doors seemed to have lost their magnetic hold
I opened the freezer door and peeled out the freezer gasket, inserted the new gasket, and closed the door. I repeated this same process for each of the French doors on the refrigerator. This was very easy to do. The only issue is the replacement gaskets don't seem to have any better stick or magnetic hold than the original gaskets, so I'm not sure the repair will improve the energy efficiency / performance of the appliance.
Unpacked, inspected, found two minor defects in the form of two tiny slivers along the seal edge which I cut with a small scissor, laid the seal down on the kitchen table, applied heat to the deformed areas and reshaped them with my fingers, heated the entire seal lightly, removed the old seal starting at the right hand upper corner using my fingers, installed the warm seal starting at the top corners by pushing it in its slot making sure the outer lip stayed out of the slot and worked my way around. I believe that the heat from the dryer made it pliable and easier to manage.
Turn water and refrigerator off, use hair to thaw the ice maker filler tube, then remove the filler tube inside the freezer. Next remove the water supply line cover plate in back of the refrigerator. Now remove the speed clip at the white pvc elbow and pull out the supply line. Next, grasp the pvc elbow with pliers and pull hard to remove. The new filler tube is a 1 piece design (filler tube and elbow combined) and needs to be cut to the proper length. Mark it inside the freezer, remove it and cut to length. Now coat the outside flange with caulk or PU glue and snap into the opening. Put the speed clip on the elbow first and center it. Ensure that the spreader insert is in place in the plastic tube, then slide the supply line into the elbow untill completely engaged. Replace cover.
Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.
Ice Maker was leaking water and causing the ice to freeze into a block
First I removed the Ice bin, I then loosened the ice bin rail under the ice maker and removed the screw that attached the bottom of the ice maker to the side of the fridge. I unplugged the power to Ice Maker from the back of the fridge and unscreewed the two screws that secured the ice maker to the fridge. This allowed the Ice Maker to be removed from the fridge. To replace the new ice maker I simply repeated the steps in reverse.
Icemaker leaked water into ice bin causing a glob of ice
Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.
Unsnap damper louver cover using only your fingernails at bottom. Remove two phillips screws from damper cover. Remove styrofoam molded insulation. Squeeze electrical connector to release latch; unplug connector. Release latches on both sides of damper control while gently pulling on damper control unit to remove it. Install new unit by doing above steps in reverse. Damper door may move when electrics connected; keep fingers clear. Amana would not honor our extended warranty that we paid $65 for, saying that noises are not covered. Im glad that Partselect supplied the part quick and and a great price. The frig is quiet for the first time in 2 years!
First I removed the icemaker from the freezer by removing two horizontal screws holding it to the side wall, and one vertical screw holding the front to a bracket coming off the side wall. Then I used a flat screwdriver to unlock the electrical plug. (After doing this, I realized that this wasn't necessary at all, and this part could have been changed just as easily without removing the icemaker.) On the front, there is a white cover with Ice Maker Plus. Use a flat screwdriver to unlock the tangs and remove the cover. There are three screws in the corners that once removed, will allow the motor assy. to be gently pulled straight out. On the back of the part, you will see many gold lands that the timer touches. I don't think there was anything wrong with my motor. I had two spots where the gold plating was worn off, so I suspect it was not making contact, and the whole process would stop. Slide the new part in place making sure the teeth on the gears line up (not a big deal), and secure with the screws. Install cover and you're done. Mine has been making ice like it was brand new.
Ok, pretty easy repair when the parts are correct (first part was faulty, parts select quickly sent me a new one)
First is removal, these tubes are in there very tight, they can be pulled out but weaken the lines and it is not likely to work without severly stretching the line to the point of breakage, if you have to cut them do so carefully and take off as little tubing as possible as you need the length to feed from top to bottom.
Once you have cut all the lines, or pulled them out (I was able to get 2 out without cutting) then make sure the edges are smooth, attach the inlet valve to the plate and just push them tightly into the new valve making sure you route the lines correctly.
Turn everything on and run the water line to see if it works. If no leaks, screw it back to the refrigerator and you are good to go. Takes maybe 20 minutes at most.
Took two times getting the correct part, however after getting the correct part it took about 10-minutes to replace. Had to take the fan out. When you put the new drip pan in make sure it is positioned so that the guides on the pan aligns with slots in the bottom refrig brace, otherwise back pannel will not align correctly. The fan is very easy getting aligned in the new tray. May take a little effort. I do not know why the pan on a refrighterator that is less than 5-years old could start breaking into many pieces.