GX2FHDXVB08 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

removed the freezer door, removed the two shelves and removed three screws from the icemaker, unplugged the wiring harnest. Installed the new icemaker in reverse procedure.

Access back of unit, lower left corner. Remove wire capacitor retention clip. Unplug cold capacitor, plug in replacement, reinstall wire retention clip, test.

Got the right part on the second try but am so happy I did it myself. Easy install 3 screws and a plug. A little hard to reach in bottom drawer freezer but making great ice now.

Loosen the 2 mounting screws on the top about 2 turns; take the one mounting screw on the bottom all of the way out. The top part of the ice maker drops down on the loose top screws. That holds the ice maker while installing the bottom screw. No need to shut off water to the ice maker, just shut off electricity to refrigerator.

Unplug the refrigerator, removed the screws/nuts from the backing plate. Disconnected the water supply line. Removed the backing plate, disconnected the internal water line. Removed the water inlet valve from the backing plate. Installed new valve, reconnected water lines, put backing plate back on. Done.

Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.

I changed the bulb but it still didn’t work. I ordered a bulb holder and replaced it and it works properly now. It was an easy repair, remove the bulb, gently pry the bulb holder out with a screwdriver and snap the new one in.

It was useful that under the description of the part in the catalog, it showed that this part was often used to repair this issue. The service was great and the delivery was fast.

knelt down, positioned replacement kickplate; popped into place, stood up!

took longer to open the box and peel bubble wrap off item than to replace it!

I got really tired of taking food out covered in icicles and stabbing a huge block of ice out of the bottom. Turns out all he needed was a little wheel with cogs and I looked up the sticker model number on this site and clicked the part of the fridge. So simple, wish I would’ve done it sooner.

I made a temporary repair by drilling the old blade plastic hub and put a small screw in it to hold it on to the shaft until the new blade arrived. The new blade came in within the two days I needed before Thanksgiving. I removed the old and pushed on the new. There were 8 screws on the back guard and two to hold the motor on. It was a snap.
Thank you PartSelect.com The wife is very, very happy now, we had 51 coming over for Thanksgiving. :)

Just swapped out new for old. Couldn’t be easier!

Take everything off the top self, lift the self install the new part ,put self back in place and then install the drawers again. Took minutes.

Snapped on the new toe grille.