The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash c...
The drain hose is black in color and made of flexible material. This is a part for your top-load washer. The hose measures 57 inches long. This part moves the water out of the washer and into the drai...
This is a dual-action agitator for a washer. It is an OEM replacement part that is sourced from the manufacturer. The agitator tosses your clothes to clean them efficiently. This plastic dual-action a...
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at ...
This drain hose support clip is a piece for your washer. The purpose of the drain hose support clip is to hold the drain hose in place by attaching to a cabinet. This piece is off-white and is roughly...
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a w...
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. T...
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
This is a replacement hub washer for your washing machine. If your washer is noisy, leaking, shaking, or pumping without spinning, you may need to replace the hub washer. The hub washer is found under...
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Chris
January 13, 2020
Occasionally water will drip into the washtub after the cycle is complete and the clothes have been removed.
For model number GTWN4250D1WS
Hi Chris, thank you for your question. If you are getting a little bit of a leaking into your tub, you may need to take a look at your water inlet valve for being the issue. It could be that it is not shutting completely to stop the water from coming through. Good luck with your repair.
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Jennifer Bissell
February 4, 2020
Randomly my washer will not drain and spin. I could do several loads of laundry and they all work fine, then it will randomly not drain and spin. I then turn the knob to drain and spin, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. Any suggestions of what could be going on?
For model number GTWN4250D1WS
Hello Jennifer, thank you for your question. That sounds like an issue with the timer, or the lid switch. I would recommend testing/replacing those two parts. I hope this helps.
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Raymod
November 27, 2019
Some times it wont turn on , some time it fills up with water and then drains, some times it goes thru a rinse cycle longer then it need to
Thanks raymond
For model number GTWN4250D1WS
Hello Raymond, thank you for your question. That sounds like an issue with the electronic timer unit. We would recommend replacing PartSelect Number PS8757105. I hope this helps!
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Tom
December 18, 2019
Spin cycle does not remove enough water, still wringing wet
What to do
For model number GTWN4250D1WS
Hello Tom and thanks for writing.
It certainly sounds like a faulty or loose belt PS1482278 check for signs of damage and replace it if needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
water continues to drip into the tub after spin cycle
For model number GTWN4250D1WS
Hello Beth, thank you for contacting us. According to our research, this issue indicates that the water inlet valve, part number PS3652834, is probably faulty. It could be that it is not shutting completely to stop the water from coming through. We hope this information helps!
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
First I removed the screws that held the hose drain hose clip in place. Removed the damaged hose. Placed the new drain hose clip at the end of the new drain hose. Re-inserted back in hole, pushed in hose to necessary depth then tighted screws, Very easy and painless.
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
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