GTS22WSTBRSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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Refrigerator and freezer compartments were not getting cold enough. Frost was building up on the back of the freezer compartment.
Tried manually defrosting several times and the unit would work for a couple of weeks and then get frosted over again.
Using this web site I easily found and identified the parts I needed. I ordered both the heating element and the heater thermostat (If I am going to take apart the unit I only want to do it once). Both parts arrived very quickly and were exact replacements for the parts in the unit.
I removed the ice maker by loosening two screws and unplugging the cable. The top part with the light came down by removing two screws. The vent at the back slid up and was removed. The back panel was removed by removing two screws. I could now access the evaporator coil.
The evaporator coil was removed by removing two screws. The old heater element was on the bottom of the evaporator coil and the heater thermostat was on the upper right of the coil.
I disconnected the wire at each end of the heater element. I removed the retaining clip at the bottom center of the coil. The heater element was removed by bending a tab at each end of the element and then sliding it down.
I unclipped the thermostat from the coil and snaked the wires around the coil to the front so I could work on them easier. I cut the thermostat wires, stripped the ends, connected the new thermostat matching the wire colors, soldered both connections and sealed with some liquid electrical tape. I then snaked the wires behind the coil and snapped the thermostat onto the coil.
The heating element slid up into the bottom of the coil and I bent the tabs back into place and reinstalled the retaining clip. I reconnected the wires to the element.
Putting everything back together was a few more minutes.
Total repair time was about 4 hours from starting to empty the freezer to when I turned the unit back on. By far the longest activity was defrosting. The actual repair itself was about half an hour. Emptying, defrosting and cleaning up were the other 3 and a half hours.
Using this web site I easily found and identified the parts I needed. I ordered both the heating element and the heater thermostat (If I am going to take apart the unit I only want to do it once). Both parts arrived very quickly and were exact replacements for the parts in the unit.
I removed the ice maker by loosening two screws and unplugging the cable. The top part with the light came down by removing two screws. The vent at the back slid up and was removed. The back panel was removed by removing two screws. I could now access the evaporator coil.
The evaporator coil was removed by removing two screws. The old heater element was on the bottom of the evaporator coil and the heater thermostat was on the upper right of the coil.
I disconnected the wire at each end of the heater element. I removed the retaining clip at the bottom center of the coil. The heater element was removed by bending a tab at each end of the element and then sliding it down.
I unclipped the thermostat from the coil and snaked the wires around the coil to the front so I could work on them easier. I cut the thermostat wires, stripped the ends, connected the new thermostat matching the wire colors, soldered both connections and sealed with some liquid electrical tape. I then snaked the wires behind the coil and snapped the thermostat onto the coil.
The heating element slid up into the bottom of the coil and I bent the tabs back into place and reinstalled the retaining clip. I reconnected the wires to the element.
Putting everything back together was a few more minutes.
Total repair time was about 4 hours from starting to empty the freezer to when I turned the unit back on. By far the longest activity was defrosting. The actual repair itself was about half an hour. Emptying, defrosting and cleaning up were the other 3 and a half hours.
Parts Used:
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Michael from Cincinnati, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
37 of 41 people
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Ice maker quit making ice
the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.
Parts Used:
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Jeffrey from Bluefield, WV
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
40 of 53 people
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Quit making ice.
There were not two screws as the instructions said. There was only one screw and I had to firmly pull it out after taking out the one screw. Then, to put the new one in, I had to line up two slots on two knob-like things and push it in firmly. Then screw the one screw in.
Other than the two-screw problem, it was easy.
Other than the two-screw problem, it was easy.
Parts Used:
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Joe from Brentwood, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
37 of 49 people
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Freezer would not defrost correctly
Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.
Parts Used:
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Michael from Milton, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
32 of 34 people
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ice maker leaked water slowly and froze the cubes together
The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.
Parts Used:
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Steven from Cave Creek, AZ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
41 of 62 people
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Ice was melting and freezing in bucket
Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.
Parts Used:
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John from Lodi, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
33 of 42 people
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Ice & Ice Cream would melt and refreeze
Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.
Parts Used:
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Joe from Suffolk, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
30 of 34 people
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Water continued to flow after icemaker was full
Using nutdriver removed access panel on back. Unscrewed water supply line. Using nutdriver removed water inlet valve. The feed line to the icemaker is a pushlock connection so removed feed line. Then reverse process.
Parts Used:
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Ray from Salem, AR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
32 of 49 people
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Failed Icemaker
Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.
Parts Used:
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GARY from PARRISH, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
35 of 62 people
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Freezer and fresh food section getting warm due to inside coils frosting over.
No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.
Parts Used:
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John from Windham, NH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
23 of 29 people
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Ice built up on coils. Fridge was warm.
No instructions came with new parts. Access to element was impossible until I accidentally discovered that the two styrofoam cushions at the ends of the coils were removable. Once removed, access to the heater and thermostat was very easy.
Unplug appliance, remove freezer shelf, cold air ducts, back of freezer, disconnect light, (My model does not have ice maker. This may also need to be disconnected.)
1.Remove styrofoam cushions at end of coils
2.Locate element between bottom two coils
3.Disconnect the male/female connections
4.Remove support clip under center of element
5.Remove element
6.Replace new element in reverse
Connecting the thermostat wires was challenging because they were somewhat behind the coils.
1.With styrofoam removed, unclip thermostat from coil
2.Carefully cut wires (leave enough to connect new wires)
3.Connect new thermostat wires (color of wires matched on my fridge)
4.Clip new thermostat in place
5.Replace styrofoam
6.Button it all up
With these steps, this job would take maybe 30 minutes; somewhat longer if your model has an icemaker.
Hope this helps.
Unplug appliance, remove freezer shelf, cold air ducts, back of freezer, disconnect light, (My model does not have ice maker. This may also need to be disconnected.)
1.Remove styrofoam cushions at end of coils
2.Locate element between bottom two coils
3.Disconnect the male/female connections
4.Remove support clip under center of element
5.Remove element
6.Replace new element in reverse
Connecting the thermostat wires was challenging because they were somewhat behind the coils.
1.With styrofoam removed, unclip thermostat from coil
2.Carefully cut wires (leave enough to connect new wires)
3.Connect new thermostat wires (color of wires matched on my fridge)
4.Clip new thermostat in place
5.Replace styrofoam
6.Button it all up
With these steps, this job would take maybe 30 minutes; somewhat longer if your model has an icemaker.
Hope this helps.
Parts Used:
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Neil from Boise, ID
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
21 of 24 people
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
Parts Used:
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Jania from Novato, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
26 of 41 people
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Fan To Cool Condenser Not Working
1. Unplugged the refrigerator 2. Vacuum inside of dust 3. Unscrewed motor and fan 4. Replaced motor then fan 5. Plugged refrigerator bingo! :)
Parts Used:
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Wilbert from Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
19 of 22 people
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Replace ice maker
New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.
Parts Used:
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Gary from Glendale, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
21 of 28 people
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Stripper on the icemaker broke into pieces.
Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.
Parts Used:
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Tracy from Yuba City, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
18 of 23 people
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