This 115-volt 60Hz evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated....
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
This door shelf is a replacement part for your refrigerator. It is very easy to install and requires no tools. Simply pull out the existing shelf bar and snap the new one into place, making sure the l...
This part is the door fixed shelf, also known as the door shelf bar, and it is built for your refrigerator. It allows food and beverages items to stay in the door shelf. It is made of white plastic. I...
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a ...
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down o...
This defrost timer will cycle for 25 minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange. If you...
$93.21
In Stock
Questions And Answers for GTS18FBSARWW
We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.
5 questions answered by our experts.
Sort by:
< Prev
1
Next >
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Jean
December 29, 2022
Serial #: GL756233
What year was this refrigerator manufactured? And how many cu ft is it?
Thank you for your time!
Jean
For model number GTS18FBSARWW
Hi Jean,
Thank you for your question. Based on the model and serial numbers that you provided, the refrigerator was manufactured in 2006. The refrigerator has a total capacity of 18.2 cubic feet. The capacity of the fresh food section is 13.89 cubic feet and the capacity of the freezer section is 4.27 cubic feet. The shelf area is 21.1 cubic feet.
If you have any questions, please let us know. We are open 7 days a week. We look forward to hearing from you!
3 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Rebecca
October 10, 2023
Ice maker plastic tube is freezing up when making ice - help pls!
For model number GTS18FBSARWW
Hello Rebecca, thank you for reaching out. Make sure your refrigerator temperature is according to the manufacturer's recommendation. If it is fine, the issue with the ice tube freezing would be a symptom of a bad water inlet valve. You will need to check the water inlet valve. The water inlet valve for this ice maker is not available separately, so you may need to replace the whole ice maker kit, part number PS10054643. We hope this information helps!
Loud noise coming from top freezer sometimes when refrigerator cycles. Think it's the evaporator fan motor this unit is 15 years old. Could this be the problem.
For model number GTS18FBSARWW
Hello Michael, thank you for getting in touch. Yes, the issue could be most probably with the evaporator fan motor, part number PS12741350. We would suggest replacing it to solve the problem. We hope this helps!
Hello Robert, thank you for contacting us. According to our research, you may need to check the defrost thermostat, part number PS1155320, to fix the issue.We hope this helps!
I have a GE Fridge GTS18FBSARWW, that thermostat is set at 9. The Freezer Temp using Laser Reading is -9 F, the Fridge temp is 44f. The defrost thermostat was just changed, but the fridge temp early gets to 36 only overnight and it is set at the lowest setting of 9. Any ideas on what is wrong or needs replacing?
For model number GTS18FBSARWW
Hello Tone, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Defrost Thermostat. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced
I removed two srews from the back panel inside fthe reezer compartment and the two that hold the air manifold/baffle? and pulled the baffle out. Then, I removed the two srews that hold the front part of the fan bracket behind the baffle and the back panel came out easily. Two more screws and one quick connect plug attached to the fan and
... Read moreI was done with removal. Insallation was even quicker, I slid the original fan right off the old motor and slid it on the new motor's shaft. Piece of cake! Thanks Partselect.
the repair was really easy!!! took longer to put the little clip on the fan part than it was to install the whole moter and put everthing back together
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
... Read moreatch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
