This 115-volt 60Hz evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated....
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
This door shelf is a replacement part for your refrigerator. It is very easy to install and requires no tools. Simply pull out the existing shelf bar and snap the new one into place, making sure the l...
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
This part is the door fixed shelf, also known as the door shelf bar, and it is built for your refrigerator. It allows food and beverages items to stay in the door shelf. It is made of white plastic. I...
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a ...
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down o...
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different t...
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Jean
December 29, 2022
Serial #: GL756233
What year was this refrigerator manufactured? And how many cu ft is it?
Thank you for your time!
Jean
For model number GTS18FBSARWW
Hi Jean,
Thank you for your question. Based on the model and serial numbers that you provided, the refrigerator was manufactured in 2006. The refrigerator has a total capacity of 18.2 cubic feet. The capacity of the fresh food section is 13.89 cubic feet and the capacity of the freezer section is 4.27 cubic feet. The shelf area is 21.1 cubic feet.
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Yally
January 16, 2023
The whole fridge is a freezer
For model number GTS18FBSARWW
Hello Yally, thank you for contacting us. We would recommend adjusting the temperature to a warmer setting. Please note that the temperature control dial has nine settings: plus 0.1 is the warmest and 9 is the coldest. If this does not help, the issue is probably related to faulty temperature control, part number FIX9493106. It regulates the temperature in the refrigerator. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you require assistance placing an order. Thanks again for reaching out!
I have a GE Fridge GTS18FBSARWW, that thermostat is set at 9. The Freezer Temp using Laser Reading is -9 F, the Fridge temp is 44f. The defrost thermostat was just changed, but the fridge temp early gets to 36 only overnight and it is set at the lowest setting of 9. Any ideas on what is wrong or needs replacing?
For model number GTS18FBSARWW
Hello Tone, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Defrost Thermostat. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced
I removed two srews from the back panel inside fthe reezer compartment and the two that hold the air manifold/baffle? and pulled the baffle out. Then, I removed the two srews that hold the front part of the fan bracket behind the baffle and the back panel came out easily. Two more screws and one quick connect plug attached to the fan and I was done with removal. Insallation was even quicker, I slid the original fan right off the old motor and slid it on the new motor's shaft. Piece of cake! Thanks Partselect.
the repair was really easy!!! took longer to put the little clip on the fan part than it was to install the whole moter and put everthing back together
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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