GT2127PIEW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the freezer door and replaced with the new hinge.

No instructions with part. Found a picture on line and changed the arm, but it didn't fix the problem. Fairly easy after figured out what needed to be done to get to the part.

empty frezzer take door off unplug wires going to ice maker unscrew/bolt icemaker replace door take motor cover off ice maker remove screws on motor replace ice cup and put every thing back together

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

Took ice maker out all together we removed 4 to 5 screws had to remove axel to get the broken piece out and new one in my husband said it was easy in and out in about 15 minutes saved about 150. 00 Thanks partslect

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Just snapped it on. If an 88 year old woman (that's me) can do it anyone can do it. The really amazing part was getting it ordered myself on line!!

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

The parts were so well described in the PartSelect catalog that I was able to find the correct replacement shelf from among a group of quite similar items. I found the display of the part against a grid background to be especially helpful.

The kickplate grille is a plastic part which has two metal clips attached to it. The old plastic frame had broken free of the metal clips and fallen off the refrigerator. Step One: Removed the two old clips by pulling them out of the refrigerator frame. Did it with finger pressure. 2. Pressed the new part which has clips attached to it into the holes in which the old clips had been placed. Voila, the repair was finished.

removed old mount with allen wrench replaced with new mount

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.