GT2127PDCW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

Snapped it together and slid it in...

I googled 'appliance repair' and discovered PartSelect. Tracking down the right part was easy - all I needed was a measuring tape to compare with the gridline
Ordering was easy and installing it was a breeze.
It was nice to know I don't have to depend on an appliance repair man or local store to fix everything.

New knob fit right in.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

I unscrewed the support and replaced it with one that I ordered. It was fast and easy.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

I merely removed the old one and replaced the old one, I luckily had a ratcheting screw driver which made things go alot quicker as there were 36 screws holding the gasket on the inside of the door, also I had to replace some of the screws that I tightened as they stripped out in the door metal, I GOT SOME OF THE SAME DIMENTION with a slightly larger thread new screws and carefully screwed them in with no problems at all. Thank you for your professional speedy service. I will surely contact you again when I need parts for my appliances even if I m not the MAYTAG repair man.

Removed screws & old seal replaced seal and screws.

Result: New seal will not lay flat against the door making it difficult to close the door completely and causing the compressor to work overtime. I am hoping that it eventually flattens out.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

The first part I changed was the defrost timer but it did
not solve the problem, I replaced the bi-metal defrost sensor
and I have the same problem.

I can defrost by turning the clock manually and heater works.



























problem.

It was this simple: Open the box. Proceed to the refrigerator and open the door. Align the brackets with the slots and push. Fill the shelf with your stuff. Close the refrigerator and say, "Thank you Partselect!"