GT1195SHB1 - Instructions

I verified I had 120 volts going into transformer when the microwave was supposed to be running. The capacitor and HV diode both tested good. Be sure to discharge the capacitor before working in this area. This isolated trouble to either the transformer or magnetron. The windings of the transformer measured good. So ordered a magnetron. It was very easy to swap. There were 4 screws and one connector. This fixed our microwave.

Problem was due to a faulty door switch. Replaced with a new switch and the microwave now works fine! Only thing that was tricky was that LG uses the hex screws with a peg in the middle to keep the microwave cover on. Had to use a small screwdriver and pliers (on the screwdriver) to unscrew the screws.

Easy, and the microwave still doesn't work.

took out plastic piece under plate (that was broken) and placed new one in the hole. No tools req'd. Works like new.

I UNPLUGGED the microwave and removed the cover, using a phillips and a Torx screwdriver for the machine screws. I set these screws aside, so as not to confuse them with the later encountered screws. I photographed the magnetron to assure proper placement of the 6 phillips machine screws involved in reassembly (marking the the locations on the old magnetron would do as well. I marked the old magnetron "old", to avoid later confusion. I removed the two screws holding the shields to the magnetron. I removed 3 of the 4 screws holding the magnetron to the microwave, leaving one of the top screws. I held the magnetron securely and removed the last screw, pulling out a the part of the magnetron that penetrated the microwave. I installed the new magnetron in reverse order. One problem I encountered was locating one of the six screws, which had been pulled into the old magnetron by magnetism.

unplug the unit then pull down , lot of screws are on top. open the cover . you could see the parts that need to replace on the right hand side (heavy side). disconnect wires then test the parts that need to replace by a tester to make sure that it's really broke .then unscrew part and replace .

Initial failure of over range microwave Aug 3rd. Control Panel worked but no heat. Took to local LG authoriaed local repair place. They fixed it quickly and we re-installed it. Worked fine for 2 months then had similar failure again. Agaim took to same authorized repairer. They kept unit for 3 months but finally concluded theu could not fix it and suggested we contact LG for a partial refund. When they tested the unit during re-assembly in my presence, there was a blue flash and the fuse blew. Since we had built a custom tile mural back splash around this unit, I brought it home, ordered a number of time delay fuses new capacitor and two new high voltage diodes. However, using my Fluke DMM, I checked the existing capacitor and high voltage diode and they checked OK so I just replaced the time delay fuse. The high voltage transformer leads had 2 possible ways to connect to capacitor and diode. Tried one way, plugged unit in and turned it on, and immediatly blew the fuse. Replaced the fuse and reversed the high voltage transformer connections,amd turned unit pn, and it worked perfectly. Since we had experienced several power failures during the time of the original failure, the repairer concluded that power spikes might be at fault, so I also purchased a TrippLite ISOBAR4ULTRA 3300 Joule surge protector between wall outlet and microwave, and re-installed over range. It has worked perfectly since.

Ice covered the top back of the freezer compartment. This did not allow the cold air to move up to the fridge. Complete defrosting (36hrs) fixed the problem. There was a lot of water, from ice inside, that was not visible. We realized the freezer drawer must have been left cracked open. Thanks so much.

The built-in microwave was removed by taking off the front plate that was secured by 3 screws at the bottom. The unit was moved to the side slightly so that the power cord could be disconnected. Then the entire unit was withdrawn. The outer shell of the unit was taken off by removing the six screws holding it in place. The shell may need to be shifted slightly to separate it from the unit. Once removed, the bracket latch and opening mechanism for the door was revealed. The latch is inserted simply by aligning the two nipples with the correponding holes in the opening mechanism and gently pushing it into place. The latch is plastic and appears to be vulnerable to breakage over time through constant use, so I have ordered a spare should the problem reoccur.

Since others reported similar problems and it was just the fuse we tried that first. That wasn't the problem so we ordered the Door Interlock Switch Kit. Shipping was very fast! Our microwave had 3 switches. My husband asked how to know which one to switch. I read that one person just did process of elimination. Luckily ours worked on the first change out! So happy to have stumbled across this site and not have to buy a whole new microwave.

I started by calling a reputable service company to diagnose my problem. The repair tech told me it was the magnetron and it was a "very difficult" repair that required two people because the over-the-range unit needed to be taken down. I asked for a detailed estimate. He quoted $550 including parts and labor. After he left, I researched the part costs on this site and realized his costs were very inflated. I purchased the magnetron for $220. It arrived at my door two days later. Installation was very easy. First, I unplugged the unit. Then, while my wife was making sure it did not fall off the wall bracket, I unscrewed the two mounting screws from the top of the cabinet. I lifted the unit down from the wall and set it on the kitchen counter. The shell needed removed from the microwave which involved about 20 screws. This provided access to the magnetron on top. The magnetron is secured by five screws and a plug. I unplugged it, unscrewed it, and removed the old part. Then, I installed the new magnetron, and tested the microwave to make sure this did the trick. It worked. I put the outer shell back on the microwave and cleaned the microwave. (This is a great opportunity to clean the areas you do not typically see!). I then remounted the unit and plugged it back in. Saved myself a bit of money so I took the family out to dinner and a movie to celebrate. Microwave was in working order for heating up left overs the next day! Thank you!!!

It literally took me longer to unpackage the fuse than to install it. I removed the outer shell by unscrewing the five screws, lifted it off and set it aside. The old fuse was readily visible so I pulled it out and put the new one in its place. I set the shell back on and replaced the screws. I plugged it in and ran it for 30 seconds while still in the shop just to make sure that solved the problem and presto - it worked like a charm. A $20 part saved me from having to purchase a new microwave (sadly, I had to break the news to the wife).

Replaced the diode (aka wire-vltge) in the HV circuit after removing cabinet cover using both the secure torx screw drvr & phillips head screw drvr. The hardest part of the job was finding the secure torx nut drvr tool on the internet & purchasing same.

All the electrics worked on Amana microwave EXCEPT for the cooking function. Inspected the control board and found the upper switch on the door interlock was burnt. Installed new switch in minutes and everything now works fine. Unfortunately, had to purchase expensive two switch "kit" although only one switch was kaput. PartsSelect mailing was SUPER fast. Thanks for looking, Scott

My wife was pushing a few buttons with her knuckle (hands were full)and the microwave just turned off. Just like we had blown a breaker. First I unpluged it. Then I removed the phillips screws of the front panel, and found and removed the ceramic fuse. 3 days later I received the new fuse in the mail, and put it in. I plugged the microwave back in and it works great.