GSS25LSLRCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Bing , Bang, Boom.

On this fridge, you MUST take out the ice maker. First took out the shelves. Then take out the ice maker. This is done by taking out the four screws on the side that hold the assembly containing the bulb. Then there is one screw that holds that assembly to the icemaker. Do not take out any other screws, this is a mistake I made that cost me a few more hours figuring out how to get the other parts to mount correctly to the assembly containing the bulb. The icemaker should lift right out once the white plus is unplugged from the assembly that holds the light. Then took out the shelf brackets and finally could remove rear panel. Found it all iced up as others have. Took 1.5 hours to manually defrost while using sponges to sop up all the water that would run into the drain if you let it. Was about a gallon of water so using sponges worked well. Heater was open when checked with a meter, but you could tell it was blown by the way it looked. All cloudy. Put things back in reverse order. Had an issue with the icemaker shooting water out and missing the icemaker. Eventually was able to align better. This fridge had also just stopped dispensing water. I think the lines may have been frozen in the back, because one day after defrosting manually, the water dispenser started working again Overall this took about 4 hours. But a few days later, the water dispenser again stopped working. Not sure about that one. I have a valve already that I will try for this issue but somehow I don't think its the valve.

Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't come with instructions. The repair, nevertheless, was fairly straightforward. After removing the plastic parts that guide the ice through the door (by removing a few screws that attach the parts to the inside of the door), I was able to slip my hand into the ice maker dispenser and remove the old part. The part clips on. It is a tight fit through the funnel (from the outside of the freezer), however, and requires that the gasket first be "flipped" open wherein it unfolds 180 degrees. Doing this will make it easier to clip the new gasket onto the assembly.

using a small socket wrench and star shaped driver I (1) removed the two screws that held the broken stop from the bottom of the door, and (2) replaced the new stop and screwed it back in. The most difficult part of the job was opening the door in order to access the second screw.

First, I removed the top drawer blocking the area where I needed to put the glass panel cover. Then, I removed the drawer along with the glass panel holder to which I needed to install the glass. I installed the glass to the panel holder without difficulties (although the glass cover was expensive :() and reinstall the drawers back to their proper place. This repair was actually a no-brainer.

Suggest removing black plastic grill first to gain better access to door stop screws. The grill is attached by two phillips screws, one on either end and several metal spring clips in the middle. The door stop is held by two star shaped screws that are only visible with a mirror. Suggest using a bit attached to a small ratchet.

I received part. I then used a hair dryer to smooth out kinks. Took about 15 minutes. Pulled off old gasket and replaced with new one. Used hands only.

Removed panel from front of freezer door by pushing up on three spring loaded screws located in the opening where the ice door opens and closes. they are about 1 inch apart on the bottom of the opening. Push up to free ice maker panel. Remove three screws from solenoid, located at the top right. Remove wire, replace with new and that is it. Fixed the problem!! Our ice maker hadn't worked for months. Be careful if you remove the round ice maker door to clean. There is a spring that located on the left side of sprocket. The spring fell off and took me a while to figure where it came from. Recieved package in three days and the job took minutes. Works great! Very easy to complete.

1. Removed all food, shelves, and ice bin from freezer compartment.
2. Removed freezer light hood and unscrewed freezer bulb.
3. Removed rear evaporator cover panel (2 Phillip’s screws, 2 hex screws).
4. Melted ice on coils with hair blow dryer (needed bath towels to collected water).
5. Removed old defrost heater (2 Phillips screws, 2 plug-ins).
6. New heater connected without any adjustments.
7. Replaced evaporator cover ice bin, shelves and food.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

1) Use plastic spudgers to remove the front control panel by levering on the front bottom of the plastic
2) Unscrew 4 retaining screws from the internal assembly
3) Slide clear plastic ice chute from the internal assembly
4) Lift the paddle 90 degrees to remove it
5) Place the spring on the paddle lug such that the long side fits in the groove on the back
6) Press the spring back, and slide the paddle into the paddle holder at a 90 degree angle
7) Once installed the short side of the spring should press against the plastic to force the paddle to its default position
8) Slide the ice chute back into the assembly
9) Replace the 4 screws holding the assembly to the refrigerator
10) Replace the front control panel

I may have missed a step here or there, but nothing major. Be mindful of the switches, and the placement of the wires. The entire process took maybe 5 minutes. I would say the most difficult part is getting the control panel off, it kind of feels like it might break, but it's a pretty robust piece.

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

the replacement part did not have the 3 screw holes needed to 100% replace the part that broke. however, i realized that the piece that fastens to these 3 screws is the slider cover piece (i dont know its name) that has the rubber gasket was sticking every time i opened the drawer and this was what caused the OEM part to break. anyone who has a GE profile with the meat compartment must know what i am talking about - it sticks and is a bit clunky to open (until the pressure breaks the pin holding the gasket as in my case).
i simply did not place that piece back when i put the replacement part in, and now it slides much more easily. the downside is slightly less seal for the meat compartment, but to me that isnt very important because that compartment does not need to be isolated from the rest of the fridge to do its job.