GSS22IBMDCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
refriderator not cooling consistetly
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
Parts Used:
-
randall from coopersville, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
No ice or water at the despenser. Compressor would turn off when the dispenser lever was pushed. There was also a loud buzzer sound for a couple of weeks prior to the board failing.
Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!
Parts Used:
-
Pat from Pensacola, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Compressor Would not come on. Found the relay on the Main Board burned up. There was no electrical power to the compressor .
Ordered a new Main circuit Board. It arrived next day. Unplug the fridge to take away electrical power. Unscrewed the panel on the back of the fridge near the top. I then pulled the wire connectors off the circuit board. Gently pull the board off the plastic tabs. Push the new board onto the tabs. Reconnect the wire connectors. Screw the panel back on.
Parts Used:
-
James from Akron, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Cabinet very hot on sides, freezer not 0, running continuously.
Diagnosis of symptoms was condenser fan not running, due to faulty main board.
First: removed the cover over the main board, which was too hot to touch. Bad design flaw, no ventilation for the board, which I believe made it fail. We got another year of service with the cover removed.
Second: after reading people's experiences here, ordered the board and popped it in. (Note: needed a pliers to compress each of the 4 plastic studs holding the board in.) Works like a champ.
Third: did NOT replace the cover. At our altitude the air can't conduct enough heat to prevent cooking the board. Need to allow circulation.
First: removed the cover over the main board, which was too hot to touch. Bad design flaw, no ventilation for the board, which I believe made it fail. We got another year of service with the cover removed.
Second: after reading people's experiences here, ordered the board and popped it in. (Note: needed a pliers to compress each of the 4 plastic studs holding the board in.) Works like a champ.
Third: did NOT replace the cover. At our altitude the air can't conduct enough heat to prevent cooking the board. Need to allow circulation.
Parts Used:
-
Philip from Los Alamos, NM
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Refrigerator ran too much, condensor fan not running
Removed cover plate on rear of unit - 3 screws
Removed connectors and ground wire
Removed board (use needle-nose pliers to compress plastic mountig posts)
Replaced board, inserted connectors, attached ground wire, put cover on
Everything worked properly
Removed connectors and ground wire
Removed board (use needle-nose pliers to compress plastic mountig posts)
Replaced board, inserted connectors, attached ground wire, put cover on
Everything worked properly
Parts Used:
-
Dan from Ellicott City, MD
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Freezer never kept a consistant temperature. One night heard a clicking noice which was followed by the temperature display showing temps like -31. Researched to find other with the same issue and ordered the replacement board to repair.
I must admit - I thought I'd attempt to do this repair and end up calling a service guy to finish it. I'm not mechanically inclined AT ALL but thought I'd give it a shot after reading others experiences. I'm glad I did. The fix was easy, but there was initial anxiety while reading the instructions that came with the part - as they mentioned the possible need to cut some wires. Fortunately that was not necessary..... Removed three screws from the rear plate to expose the part needing to be replaced. Remove the fittings from the old board (needed plyers to do that - be gentle), take the old board out by using needle nose pliers to squeeze the white plastic tabs and pull the board free. Reconnect fittings to new board and you are done. Works better now than ever - obviously the old board had an issue that GE should have recalled, as many others had the same problem.
Parts Used:
-
David from Barrington, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Refrigerator/Freezer Warm & Condenser Fan Not Running
The control board and access panel are on the back of the refrigerator, so you will need to roll/slide the refrigerator away from the wall to gain access to the panel. Be careful not kink the water line if you have an ice maker connection.
Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.
On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator).
Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.
Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.
Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).
Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.
On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.
Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).
If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.
Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.
On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator).
Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.
Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.
Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).
Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.
On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.
Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).
If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.
Parts Used:
-
H E from St Simons Island, GA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Defrost not working coil iced up
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
Parts Used:
-
charles from SCOTTSDALE, AZ
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
broken off side support
-
IRISA from TAMPA, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
clicking nose from mother board
pulled the board away from the 4 plastic pins, unplugged the wires and plugged them directly into the new noard, pushed board back onto the four plastic pins.......job completed in under 5 minutes. Fridge working fine now for over a week......no problems.
Parts Used:
-
LEE from WILMINGTON, DE
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
evap coil freezing up every 2 weeks
removed 2 - 1/4" screws and 2 phillip screws to take off the evap cover, then 2 phillip srews to take out the defrost heater assembly, replaced and put everything back together. no problem.
I GOT THE PART SO FAST THAT I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE IT THERE!
I GOT THE PART SO FAST THAT I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE IT THERE!
Parts Used:
-
Rudolph from Arroyo Grande, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Freezer would not freeze and fridge would not cool after power outages
I used a volt/ohm meter and checked for power to compressor and start run relays, diagnosis- was remove and replace motherboard
Parts Used:
-
Cecilia from NATALIA, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
freezer was freezing up.
took the back off and defrosted with a hairdryer. disconected the part pulled the part out cut the wires. put the other part on and instaled it. put it back together and it seems to be working just fine. thank you
Parts Used:
-
doyle from kingston, WA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
freezer coils would freeze
Turned the power of to the fridge took the food out of the freezer put in the fridge took out all the shelves and took off the panel to get to the coils. I used a hair dryer and a shop vac to defrost the coils used the shop vac to suck up the water as the ice melted also put some paper towel in the drip tube so the water would not go to the drip pan. Took off old defrost heater which was a single heater the new on was a double heater fished out the blue wire from the left side of compartment and ran it down the right side plugged both wires into the heater mounted it into place and put everything back. Turned on fridge and it has been working fine ever since. Thanks for the last person that did this I read his review and it really was that easy
Thanks Jerry
Thanks Jerry
Parts Used:
-
Jerry from Grass Lake, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Making an owl sound from the icemaker side
Simple; Removed the panel, unplugged the cable connections to the mother board with a rat nosed plier.
Then to remove board you must squeeze closed the 4 plastic retainer clips in each corner, or they can accidentally be pulled off with the board.
Removed the board, re-attached the new board on the clips, then the cable connectors, then the panel.
Plugged in the refrige and it has been silent ever since.
Follow the instructions and anyone can do it.
Then to remove board you must squeeze closed the 4 plastic retainer clips in each corner, or they can accidentally be pulled off with the board.
Removed the board, re-attached the new board on the clips, then the cable connectors, then the panel.
Plugged in the refrige and it has been silent ever since.
Follow the instructions and anyone can do it.
Parts Used:
-
james from vista, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!