GSS22IBMCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

A second person is necessary to help prop up the refrigerator. One person will need to insert a 6 inch support under the front of the refrigerator base while another person rocks the refrigerator back to provide access for the support to be inserted.

The front refrigerator panel was removed to reveal the refrigerator base and provide access to the front wheel assembly adjustment screw (screw mobility). The front of the refrigerator was propped up on a solid support about 6 inches above the floor to provide access to the front wheel assembly and allow removal through the base of the refrigerator. The front wheel assembly was dislodged from the base by first removing the pivot pin by hand and then prying the wheel assembly loose with a screwdriver. Normally the pivot pin would need to be released by prying it loose with a screwdriver and then pulling to free by hand. Once the front wheel assembly was dislodged the adjustment screw was removed with a socket set and the front wheel assembly fell out of the refrigerator base. The new front wheel assembly was then inserted into the refrigerator base, the new pivot pin was inserted and aligned with the support holes and pressed into place to secure with locking mechanism. The new adjustment screw was then inserted into the refrigerator base hole, aligned with the front wheel assembly and hand tightened to set the first threads. The adjustment screw was then tightened with a socket set to seat the adjustment screw. The refrigerator was then lowered and the adjustment screw was adjusted to level the refrigerator. The refrigerator was then pushed back into its normal position and a final adjustment performed to assure the refrigerator was level. The front refrigerator panel was then pressed back into place.

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

Unplugged frig. Emptied freezer shelves of food, removed ice container, removed all shelves, removed light bulb cover and light bulb, removed rear panel over coils (2 phillips on bottom and 2 1/4" hex on top/staggered. Used hair dryer hung on a wire to defrost the "ice block" over the coils. Used heavy towels to catch the water in the bottom so the condensate drain didn't just overflow. Removed the 2 screws holding the old element. Unplugged the quick disconnects. The new 2 element heater purchased at partselect is not "encapsulated" like a florescent tube as was the original. Much greater efficiency with exposed element coils. Re-routed blue wire on left of coil bank to the right-used the same split insulator that pink wire is in to keep it safe, did not need to use the jumper extention that comes with the kit. Plugged in both the blue and pink wire quick disconnects, installed the new defrost element with the 2 screws. Cut the old thermostat right up against it's sensor pot. Stripped existing wires, used my own wire nuts to mate the new thermostat, wrapped tight with electrical tape, then tucked them up underneath. Snapped the new sensor on the evaporator line at original location. Replaced panel, plugged frig back in, turned control in frig side to 1, and it works like new now. No more freezer burn. Ice cubes better. Still, this design is poor and no more ge major appliances for me.

As it turned out much of the electronics is driven by 13.5 volts off the Main Control Board. The Ice Dispenser caused the problem because it over currented the depleted board power. You could hear a clicking noise from the board which was the main relay short cycling and not staying energized. While waiting for the replacement board I unpluged the condenser fan which is a DC motor and uses the Board power. In place of that fan I use a small table top fan to keep the condenser cool. As it turned out I only needed it for 3 days because Parts Select did a super quick job of delivering the new board. Thanks for the super service!!!!!! Removal of the board only required unpluging the electrical connections squezing the retaining board pins with pliers and pulling the board out, pushing on the new board and connecting the electrical plugs. If the board locks like mine did, just unplug the main board power plug, let the memory clear and replug the power plug. The unit should then start and run with no problems.

I am a 45 year old woman who is pretty handy but with no prior knowledge about appliance repair. I do have the attitude that if someone else can do it, so can I, which is helpful. I was able to watch a video on this website that showed me exactly how to replace one of the three parts that I replaced. It totally made it easy so that I knew what to do with the wiring. So far, my side by side is working great. I'm the champion! This repair cost me about $75. Who knows how much a repair man would have charged just to look at it.

This was a simple repair. I removed the broken bin from the refrigerator and snapped the white plastic handle / humidity control slide off the broken bin and snapped it onto the new bin. I replaced the bin in the refrigerator and loaded it up with veggies. Took all of 5 minutes to make the repair.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

I watched the on live video. Piece of cake!

The repaire guy came in tooke it out and told me it is goin to coast $20 for the part and $50 for the labor..... So I looked, It was soooo eeezzz ALL you have to do is get the switch out( with help of my butter knife :) it plugs in to a little outlet on the wire (on the botom side) so take out the old one and plug in the new one wich I got for $8 + $6 shipping = $15 THANK YOU PART SELECT for saving me $55 Im a 36 y/o stayathome mom and Ihave never don this before, Im very proud of my self. well... it was very easy!

Removed panel from inside the back of the freezer section, by removing four screws. Then, sprayed the ice build-up on the coils, with hot water until all of the ice was melted away. (Note: be certain to plug the drain hole, and use several towels to catch the water drainage. ) Removed the Defrost Heater Element by removing two holding screws. Unplug the unit and pluged-in the new unit and replaced all screws as originally mounted.

First, we called Sears Repair and had a technician come to our home. He stated the motherboard had gone bad probably due to a power surge (we had no surge protector on the appliance). His price for repair was $465.00. We opted to go online for the part and found it for $165.00 through PartSelect.com. It was a very simple procedure of removing the old and installing the new. A few turns with the nut driver to uncover the part, a few tugs with the pliers to disconnect and voila!.. The fridge was back to cooling in no time.

Repair man said we needed a new circuite board, which I ordered and installed, however didn't fix the problem. Freezer was still freezing up, so I ordered a new defrost heater and thermostate. Installed yesterday, so it will be a week or so before I can check to see if this repair is working. However, replacement of these parts was very easy, and online ordering and delivery service the best. Keeping fingers crossed this repair does the trick. Best, Mike

Remove rear plate. Remove fan bracket. Replace fan gaskets, blade and motor. Replace bracket. Replace rear plate. Very simple. Fixed the problem.

1) Unplug Refrigerator. Remove all shelves and light shield in the freezer.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!