GSG25SESACSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

removed ice bucket from frig. removed screws to dis assemble the box to get to the auger assembly,removed stripped nut replaced reassembled be care not to let the rest of the assembly fall from auger there are a lot of blades and spacers to try to get back to proper position.

I put kickplate on refrigerator and use 2 sheetrock screws and drill to attach. Done in 5 minutes.

We opened the box, unpacked the drawer, washed and dried it, installed it! No muss, no fuss!

Ordered gasket. Laid out gasket near sunlit window untangled and flat on carpet for 24 hours to insure it was pilable and correct shape. Removed the old gasket manually easily without any tools and cleaned the door's seal groove with a paper towel slightly soaked with Simply Green. Installed new gasket starting at the upper corners then inserting upper edge by tilting the gasket toward the inside of the door with my fingers. Then installed the lower corners along with the bottom edge. Proceeded installing the side edge working from the set corners inserting the gasket's inner tongue into the door groove with my fingers again tilting the gasket inside the door. Once the gasket was installed, I closed the door and guided my fingers along the gasket to insure the magnetic edge formed a firm seal. This is wear the DIY videos suggested applying petroleum jelly but I did not need it since the gasket was pliable enough. Overall, the effort took 15 minutes because I think laying out the gasket for 24 hours allowed it to settle into its desired form..

It was so much easier than I thought. First we used a hair dryer to loosen everything up. Just pulled off the old on (with our hands) and put the new one on. Then went around the edges and wiggled it into place. There are plastic ridges that if fits into, so it’s important to make sure every part is sealed.

I followed the onsite video and had no problems. Shut off refrigerator, removed storage trays and bind, removed the rear panel under the light, identified the orange and pink electrical wires and cut them. Spliced the new wires of the thermostat with refrigerator wire and capped them, applied electrical tape to insure no moister makes contact with wires. Replaced rear panel and storage racks and bind. Plugged in the refrigerator and it is operations like new. I was about to purchase a new refrigerator for $ 1,300.00 and the thermostat costed $ 13.00. What a Christmas present!

I made my wife fix it.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

I used a mirror to locate the two small plastic tabs located on the underside of the ice dispenser light. I used a small flat blade screwdirver to push the plastic tabs forward to release the ice/water selector unit. I read about someone that did not see the tabs and ended up removing the inside of the freezer door, a two hour task! The ice and water control unit then slides out. remove the four rusty screws holding the dispensert and ice chute, the selenoid isthen easy to see.
Just replace the solenoid if your are having problems, I tried to lube it but to now avail. There is some rust in there so good time to clean up and put new screws in. Be care when removing the plastic lock tab on the circut board it breaks easely. If it does no big deal just make sure the connection is pushed in all the way. test your handy work before buttoning up. The solenoid comes with a new plunger so don't worry about cleaning the old one. The screws do not come with.

Replaced both the Defrost Thermostat and Defrost Heating Element. The You Tube repair video clips were extremely helpful for both operations. My difficulty was getting access to the parts that needed to be replaced in a very tight side by side freezer space. Otherwise, the repair went smoothly and the refrigerator is back in normal operation in time to save the perishable food inside.

I replaced defrost sets, door gasket but still ice buildup freezer part.

Easy order, fast delivery, two screws, done.

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

I had to replace the whole tray. Required complete disassembly and reassembly. Simple to do. No problems whatsoever!!