GSC309PVB02 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Pull the end of the lens nearest the oven door out of the oven wall. Because our oven is several years old and the bulbs had not been previously changed, I could not pull the lens out with my hand, so used two small screwdriver under the metal tabs which hold the lens in place, the metal holder came out with the lens. Once the lens is removed, simply pull out the old bulb and, either while wearing surgical gloves or holding the bulb with a cloth (do NOT allow bare skin to touch the bulb or you will be replacing it again sooner rather than later), push the new bulb's pins into the socket. The lens then is simply pushed back into place.

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

I took out the old chipped dish and replaced with the new dish...

The instructions from another customer was helpful. I concur with another comment I read while researching this proceedure. What Idio-- would design a microwave that required pulling the unit from the wall and removing the top panel just to access. It is good idea to unplug the transformer and capacitor wires before proceeding. I also googled a schematic to see the parts layout. Remember not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Use a cloth or paper towel.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Read all the way through this once before doing it. It really helps in keeping pieces and parts separated. First I had to take off the oven door. Please do this as it will make your life so much easier! The owners instructions does a lousy job explaining how to do this. You need to insert a small Allen wrench into the holes behind the door hinge pin. Just stick them in there and leave them. If you don't have Allen wrenches you can use small nails or the like, but you have to put something into the holes. Close the door slowly, yes it will feel like you are going to break the hinges or the wrenches. When you get the door almost completely closed you should wiggle the door a bit by the handle and pull up. The door will come off. Once you get the door off you can get to work. Leave these wrenches in the hinge holes. You will need a flat surface big enough to lay the door down to work on it. Lay it down with the handle towards the surface and the broken glass facing you. Remove the 4 screws on the broken glass side, the 2 screws holding the brackets on the bottom and the 2 screws on the top of the door. You will need to wiggle the inside cover off because there are 2 little clips at the top you need to get it off of the outer glass door. You should have 2 separate pieces, the outer glass of the door and the inner tempered glass and sheet metal portion of the door. Set the outer glass door aside, somewhere safe, as you really don't want to have to reorder that part too! From there you can lay the door down with the broken inner door glass towards the work surface. Remove the screws and good pieces of glass and lay them down in the order you take them out. This helps putting them back together later. Keep the pieces together in sets so you know which set goes to each section. There should be 3 pieces of glass total in the assembly. You remove the screws and the 2 good pieces of glass. The inside door glass is accessible under a large piece of sheet metal held in place by little flanges cut into it. You can remove this sheet metal panel piece by wiggling it out away from under the hinges and away from the hinge end. There is a piece of insulation under there as well. Make sure you reseat it correctly when you put it all back together. If you don't it will stick out, and make things hard to line up. Pull the broken glass out, Put the new glass in and replace the sheet metal panel. At this point I would suggest putting the four screws you took out at the very beginning from the inside of the door back in. They keep the 2 hinge assemblies in place and they will be harder to line up if you don't. You need to work from the bottom side up but it's pretty easy to get the 4 screws back in. Don't be afraid to wiggle the pieces around so you can line up the holes. They need to line up so that the hinges line up back to the oven. Reverse how you took the other glass pieces out and put the door back together. Put the front glass piece back on and secure it in place with the bottom door brackets and screws and the top 2 screws. Lift the door unit back up by the handle and place it in the slots for the hinges exactly the way you removed it. You will feel it sort of catch when you pull the door open slowly. Remove the Allen wrenches and you are done.

Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.

A screw on the botton of the door was very inaccessible and difficult to remove. The rest of the process was flawless.

Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from bad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.

Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.

First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).

Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.

The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.

Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).

Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.

This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.

Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.

The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.

Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.

Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.

Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.

Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.

Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you

I just placed the tray in and was done. The kicker is that i cannot use my microwave without the tray. so i was without my microwave for 2 weeks before i called parts select. they were quick and fast.

easily IDed parts; ordered, here 3 days later. very convenient. no hassle. no wasted time going from place to place or calling everyone in yellow pages.

Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install