GS475LEMS2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Remove 2 screws holding oven bottom in place.Lift out the plate and replace with new plate. The hardest part of the replacement was lining up the screw holes. By the way i have never received such great service from any internet company as Part Select. I ordered the part on a Monday and the part was at my home the NEXT DAY and installed that evening.

Bought new igniter.
Pulled stove from wall and turned off gas and disconnected power cord.
Removed oven racks.
Removed oven floor.
Removed heat shield/dissipater thing.
Removed 2 screws holding igniter to gas burner tube.
Disconnected the wire (this was harder than expected because igniter had only a few inches slack in the wires), took off back to try to find better access to wires, no help there, door was not easily removable so difficult to reach in with 2 hands to pull wires apart, eventually I got it.
Connected new wires.
Replaced igniter to feeder tube with 2 screws.
Plugged back in, turned gas back on and tested.
Reassembled heat shield thing, oven floor, racks.
Done.

Remove;
Bottom drawer- pull open and lift up slightly when fully open then pull the drawer the rest of the way out.
Unplug ignitor terminal- there is a small tang inside the terminal end that needed pressed out of the small hole of the ignitor, with a pick.
Oven racks.
Oven bottom- 2 long phillips screws at the back. lift the back up 1st then the front comes up and out.
Burner diffuser- 2 small phlilips at front (they only prevent the diffuser from sliding, they don't screw into anything). slide diffuser forward out of the notch then lift the front up. pull rear tabs out of the notches to completely remove.
Ignitor- two 8mm (5/16) bolts holding ignitor to burner. pull ignitor out of guide holes.
Reverse to install new ignitor.

Unsrewed what was left of the trim and oven handle. Just 4 screws total, then replaced the 2 screws of the trim and the 2 screws on handle.
Finished! Replacement parts fit perfect!!! Thanks a milliion!

Removed two screws holding the bottom in, pulled out old bottom, inserted new bottom, replaced screws and tightened them. Total time less than five minutes.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

Turned off power to range. Removed the lower panel that was secured by two screws, as well as the metal cover beneath it also secured by screws.. Removed the two screws securing the igniter, and pulled apart the black tubing that secured the igniter. (I had to pull hard to get it apart). Plug the new end into that same black tubing. screw in the two screws to secure the new igniter (this is tricky because one screw is hard to reach) I laid something in the base to cover the holes so I wouldn't lose a screw if it dropped. Screw metal panel back in, followed by the lower oven panel.

I had problem with the oven of the stove since the beginning. It wa difficult to start. Later, it stoped working. The technician told m that the gas valve regulator was the problem. That was the reason I decided to buy a new one. After installing it, however, the problem continues. The ignition starts, but the gas does not go thru. It seems the signal does not go to the valve to open the gas.

Just took the bottom cover off the bottom of the stove, pulled the old igniter and put the new one on.

This did not solve my problem.
What do I need to do next?

Our existing gas stove burner igniter had broken on one of the four burners. I therefore obtained a replacement igniter and mounting screw form PartSelect.com which were indeed perfect replacement parts. However, I could not remove the burner plates from the top of the stove since they were basically welded into position by years of heat. I therefore followed instructions as submitted by a previous customer (thank you Michael of Bloomington, Il), snapped open the stove lid retainer clips, and then lifted the stove surface about 4 inches. Through that opening I was able to reach the underside of the involved burner. Unfortunately, I could not unscrew the existing broken igniter mounting screw and therefore had to break off the already broken igniter and grind down the remaining mounting screw using a drill grinder since the screw was basically welded into place. Once I did that, I was then able to install the new igniter using a separate unused screw hole already in place right beside the old previous mounting screw. With that done, the new igniter works perfectly and the burner works just like new. It was however a lengthy process over two hours long because of the glitches described above. Nevertheless I'm very pleased that the parts were perfect and the repair is complete.

Removed two gas lines at the safety valve. Removed the four mounting screws and disconnected the three wires. Re-assembled in reverse order of dis-assembly. This was an easy diagnosis and repair/replacement. The PartSelect website is very easy to use if you have the model number and I like the diagrams to be sure the part is correct.

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Removed the bottom pan and heat shield plate, removed the drawer to get to the igniter disconnect the one wire from it and removed it and just repeated the same process backwards to put the new one in. All under 15 mins